Ammoudi Bay: The Corner of Santorini Worth Finding
Tucked into the red cliffs below Oia, Ammoudi Bay is the version of Santorini most visitors miss. Rustic waterfront tavernas, a hidden swimming spot past the last restaurant and sunset views without the crowds. Here's everything worth knowing before you visit.
Half of this travelling duo grew up watching The Sisterhood of the Travelling Pants, which means arriving at Ammoudi Bay for the first time carried a certain weight. This is where Lena tumbles into the sea and is rescued by Kostas, who woos her by throwing small fish back into the water. A love story for the ages.
In all seriousness, Ammoudi Bay turned out to be one of our favourite places on Santorini, and not because of the film connection.
Tucked into the red cliffs directly below Oia, connected to the village above by 300 steps from Oia Castle, this former fishing port hasn't entirely lost its working character.
Boats still come and go. The tavernas that line the waterfront are rustic in that very Greek Islands way. The octopus hangs like garlands in the sun to dry. The water laps right at the table's edge.
It's home to one of the most atmospheric dining experiences on the island, one of Santorini's most accessible and picturesque swimming spots and a sunset view that most visitors to Oia never find.
Ammoudi Bay is the version of Santorini you come looking for and mostly don't find. This guide covers how to find it.
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AMMOUDI
BAY,
SANTORINI
OVERVIEW
WHERE | Directly below Oia on the northwestern tip of Santorini
DON'T MISS | Lunch at Katina Fish Taverna, the swimming spot and cliff jumping at Armonia Bay, sunset from a waterfront table
WHERE TO EAT | Katina Fish Taverna (our pick), Ammoudi Fish Tavern, Dimitris Ammoudi Taverna, Sunset by Ammoudi
BEST FOR | Couples, food lovers, those wanting a quieter alternative to Oia, swimmers and cliff jumpers
BEST TIME TO VISIT | Early evening for sunset dining. Midday for the swimming spot
GETTING THERE | 300 steps down from Oia Castle is the most scenic option. By car or ATV: drive down to the informal port parking area
NOTE | Please do not use the donkey rides back up to Oia. Their mistreatment on Santorini is well documented
PLAN YOUR VISIT TO AMMOUDI BAY, SANTORINI
WHERE IS AMMOUDI BAY?
Ammoudi Bay sits on the northwestern tip of Santorini, directly below Oia and around 12km from the island capital, Fira. It's the old fishing port of Oia — tucked into the base of the red caldera cliffs, with Thirasia island visible across the bay.
For everything else you need to know about Santorini before visiting, our Santorini travel guide covers it all.
HOW TO GET TO AMMOUDI BAY
ON FOOT FROM OIA | The most atmospheric option and the one we'd recommend. The 300-step descent starts just below Oia Castle - find the entrance point here
The path weaves along the rocky caldera edge with the red cliffs above and the bay appearing below as you descend. Allow 20-30 minutes down. It’s considerably less fun on the way back up in the heat
BY BUS + WALK | There's no direct bus to Ammoudi Bay, but you can take the KTEL bus from Fira to Oia (around €2.20-2.80, 30 minutes), then walk the 300 steps down to the bay from Oia Castle
Check current timetables at ktel-santorini.gr before travelling — buses run every 20-30 minutes in peak season but fill up fast on the Fira to Oia route
BY CAR OR ATV | Drive directly to the informal port parking area at the bay - find it here. It fills fast in peak season, so arrive early. Book in advance via Discover Cars, although Santorini is one place we don’t recommend hiring a car
BY TAXI | Around €10 from Oia, slightly more from Fira. The restaurants will arrange a taxi for you on your return journey.
A NOTE ON THE DONKEYS | Donkeys are stationed at the bottom of the steps to carry tourists back up to Oia. Please do not use them. The issues around their mistreatment on Santorini are well-documented. A taxi is €10 and takes minutes.
WHEN TO VISIT AMMOUDI BAY
Shoulder season, as it is for almost everywhere on Santorini.
Late April to early June and mid-September to October give you the bay at its most manageable, warm enough to swim, quiet enough to actually enjoy the tavernas without a reservation made weeks in advance.
July and August bring the full weight of Santorini's tourist season to Ammoudi Bay.
It's still beautiful, but the steps from Oia are busy, the tavernas are packed, and the swimming spot gets crowded by midday.
BEST TIME OF DAY
Late afternoon into sunset is the classic Ammoudi Bay experience - the light on the red cliffs is gorgeous, the tavernas fill up in the best possible way, and the view across to Thirasia as the sun drops is genuinely special.
Midday works well for the swimming spot before the afternoon crowds build. If you're combining lunch with a swim, arrive by noon, eat first and head to Armonia Bay afterwards.
WHAT TO DO AT AMMOUDI BAY, SANTORINI
WALK DOWN TO AMMOUDI BAY FROM OIA
The 300-step descent from Oia Castle to Ammoudi Bay is almost vertical, cut directly into the caldera cliff face. It's arduous and incredible in roughly equal measure.
The path weaves along the rocky edge of the caldera, the geological layers of the red cliffs visible at arm's length on one side, Thirasia island and the open Aegean on the other.
The bay appears gradually below - the pastel tavernas, the boats bobbing offshore, the water an extraordinary shade of blue in the afternoon light.
It's one of the better (short) walks on the island and is worth doing for the descent alone, even if you drive back up - just take your bathers for a quick dip nearby.
The donkeys stationed at the bottom of the steps are there to carry tourists back up. Please don't use them. The issues around their mistreatment on Santorini are well documented - our responsible travel guide covers this in more detail.
THE DETAILS
Where | Oia Castle staircase entrance - find the top of the steps here
RELATED | Our guide to Oia, Santorini’s postcard-perfect town
EAT FRESH SEAFOOD AT A WATERFRONT TAVERNA
Picture this: you’re sitting at a table at the edge of the water, waves lapping at the terrace, grilled sardines, bread and a Greek salad, a glass of chilled Assyrtiko in hand and the caldera rising above it all.
That's lunch at Ammoudi Bay, and it's one of the more purely Greek dining experiences available on an island that can sometimes feel like it's performing Greece rather than being it.
All the tavernas along the bay serve roughly the same menu - the day's catch grilled over charcoal, served simply with local wine and the standard Greek appetisers.
The setting does most of the work. The fish is fresh, the prices are what you'd expect for a location this good and the atmosphere in the early evening, when the light hits the red cliffs, is once-in-a-lifetime.
Our pick is Katina Fish Taverna, the most celebrated restaurant on the bay. Ammoudi Fish Tavern is the most popular and consistently well-reviewed, while Dimitris Ammoudi Taverna and Sunset by Ammoudi are solid alternatives if the others are full. Vegetarians will find the choice limited to appetisers, including fava, salad, and grilled vegetables, but won't go hungry.
Budget around €45-50 per person for a full meal with wine. Book in advance for afternoon and evening sittings. Midday tends to be more accessible without a reservation.
WATCH SUNSET FROM AMMOUDI BAY
While most of Santorini crowds into Oia Castle for sunset, Ammoudi Bay offers a quieter version of the same show, the caldera cliffs turning pink and gold above you, the light spreading across the water toward Thirasia and the taverna terraces filling with people who had the same idea.
It's not as dramatic a vantage point as the clifftop. But sitting at a waterfront table with a glass of wine as the light changes around you is a lovely way to end a day, and less chaotic than the scene 300 steps above.
For the most dramatic sunset experience in the area, watching the sun drop behind Oia from the deck of a catamaran on the caldera is something else entirely.
THE DETAILS
READ MORE | Our complete Santorini sunset guide
SWIM AND CLIFF JUMP AT ARMONIA BEACH
Most people walk to Ammoudi Bay, eat, look at the view and leave. The ones who keep walking past the last taverna find something considerably better.
Five to ten minutes along the dirt track past the final restaurant, Armonia Bay opens up to rocks, clear water and a small island across the bay with Saint Nicholas Church sitting on top of it. No beach, no vendors, no facilities of any kind, just people who've figured out that this is where you actually want to be - lying on the rocks and enjoying the excellent views.
If you’re diving in, we suggest getting across to the island. On one side, there's a ladder, or you can scramble up the rocks to a cliff jumping spot above the water. The jump is worth it. So is just floating in the bay below, looking back at the red cliffs.
The rocks underfoot are sharp, so aqua shoes make a real difference. Bring water and sunscreen because there's nothing available once you leave the tavernas behind.
THE DETAILS
Where |Armonia Bay, Oia
Tips | Bring a towel, aqua shoes, and lots of water
TRAVEL INSURANCE | STAY SAFE IN GREECE
Honest take: if something goes wrong, a medical emergency, a missed ferry, a scooter accident on a coastal road, travel insurance is the difference between a stressful story and a catastrophic one.
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READ | Our ultimate guide to travel insurance
PLANNING A TRIP TO GREECE SOON?
Check out these essential guides, travel tips, and more to help you plan your trip:
EXPLORE SANTORINI
Santorini Travel Guide — everything you need to know before you visit
Where to Stay in Santorini — every area and budget covered
Oia Guide — what to see, when to go and how to do it right
MORE CYCLADES
Things to Do on Naxos — we spent a month here, and it's our favourite Greek island
PLAN YOUR GREEK SUMMER WITH OUR USEFUL GUIDES
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