The Best Things to Do in Stari Grad, Hvar: Croatia's Most Underrated Town
After three visits to Stari Grad, we'll admit: we should have based ourselves here instead of Hvar Town. Quieter, cheaper, more characterful and with a pace of life that feels genuinely Croatian. Here's everything worth doing, eating and seeing in Hvar's most underrated town.
UPDATED MAY 2026
Away from the glamour and parties of Hvar Town, the historic town of Stari Grad is one of the most overlooked destinations on the island, and one of the most rewarding.
Our first visit was cursory. A short day trip from our base in Hvar Town, ticking off a few sights before heading back. It didn't take long to realise we'd significantly underestimated the place. So we returned, a second, then a third time.
Stari Grad is the antithesis of Hvar Town, the shy, modest cousin to its glitzier, louder sibling.
The town curves around a deep, protected inlet that drew those first Greek settlers here in 384 BC, and that same unhurried quality has somehow survived intact.
Cafes and fishing boats line the palm-fringed promenade. Ancient limestone lanes wind through an old town that dates back to antiquity. The smell of lavender drifts through the air. Nobody is in a particular hurry.
The Stari Grad plain, a UNESCO World Heritage Site where an ancient Greek system of field division has been preserved for over 2,400 years, sits just outside town, easily accessible by bike.
The restaurants are excellent and considerably cheaper than Hvar Town's. The beaches are quieter. The locals are friendlier. And after our third visit, we'll say it plainly: we should have based ourselves here from the start.
This is our guide to everything worth doing, eating and seeing in Stari Grad, Hvar's beautiful, underrated second town.
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STARI GRAD AT A GLANCE
DON'T MISS | The Riva at sunset, Srinjo Kola, Tvrdalj Palace, Antika restaurant, Za Pod Zub, Hora Farm wine tasting, Glavica Hill
BEST FOR | Slow travellers, couples, culture lovers
WHEN TO VISIT | May and September are the sweet spots.
HOW TO GET THERE | Direct car ferry from Split via FerryHopper, or ferry to Hvar Town and bus (20 minutes, €2-4)
GET AROUND | The town is entirely walkable.
WHERE TO STAY | Maslina Resort (luxury) · Hotel Antica (mid-range) · Dolce Terra (best Airbnb)
TOP TOURS | Cycle Hvar Day Tour · Hvar wine tasting tour
WHERE TO STAY IN STARI GRAD
Stari Grad has a small but good selection of accommodation, from characterful stone apartments in the old town to a well-located hotel right next to the ferry terminal.
A few of our picks:
STONE HOUSES | A centuries-old rustic stone apartment sleeping 2-4, with a private patio and BBQ. A characterful base for exploring the town.
HOTEL ANTICA STARI GRAD | 4-star, right next to the ferry terminal, bay views, buffet breakfast included and genuinely excellent staff. *Our hotel pick in town.
APARTMANI MELEM | A lovely apartment just outside town with a large backyard and BBQ. Perfect for those who want a quieter, more self-contained base.
For the full breakdown of every option across every budget, our Stari Grad hotels guide and Where to Stay on Hvar guide cover everything in detail.
THINGS TO DO IN STARI GRAD, HVAR
#1 STROLL THE RIVA
Every Croatian coastal town has its Riva, a seafront promenade where locals come to be seen and to see, and Stari Grad's is one of our favourites.
Lined with centuries-old Venetian Renaissance buildings, fishing boats bobbing in the calm waters, al fresco restaurants and ice cream stands, it's the perfect starting point for any visit to the town.
Come in the late afternoon when the light turns golden, and the promenade fills with locals taking their evening stroll.
The contrast with Hvar Town's Riva is striking. Here you're more likely to hear the sound of conversation and cutlery than thumping bass, and that, for most of the travellers who make their way to Stari Grad, is entirely the point.
#2 STROLL THE OLD VENETIAN LANEWAYS
After our third visit to Stari Grad, we admitted the truth to ourselves: we should have based ourselves here instead of Hvar Town. The quiet limestone lanes, the relaxed pace, the friendly locals and the prices that don't make you wince — it was simply more us.
The old town rewards slow wandering without a plan. Ancient limestone streets, bougainvillea-covered staircases, historic archways and small churches appear around every corner. You can spend a morning here getting genuinely lost and loving every minute of it.
A few spots worth seeking out specifically:
SRINJO KOLA (MIDDLE STREET)
The historic heart of the old town dates back to the island's earliest settlers. In the prosperous maritime years of the 1870s and 80s this was the main commercial street of Stari Grad, full of craftsmen and merchants selling their wares.
Today it's home to good cafes, delis, local produce stores, artwork and traditional souvenirs - it has a distinctive character that feels genuinely lived-in rather than tourist-facing.
Don't miss the ancient Roman mosaic on the street, discovered in 1923 and easy to walk past without noticing.
TVRDALJ PALACE
The 16th-century summer residence of Croatian aristocrat and poet Petar Hektorović, who designed it himself in the Renaissance style.
When the Ottomans attacked the island, Hektorović fortified the villa to shelter the local population.
Today you can visit the interior, beautiful gardens, living quarters, a seawater fish pool that's unlike anything else on the island, and terraced walls that tell the whole layered history of the place. Well worth the entrance fee.
SKOR SQUARE
One of the most beautiful squares in Stari Grad, surrounded by the ancient homes of once-noble families. The kind of place where you sit down for five minutes and end up staying for an hour. Bring a coffee/ice cream.
#3 CYCLE THROUGH THE UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE-LISTED STARI GRAD PLAIN
Here's a connection worth knowing about: the agricultural plots of the Stari Grad plain were laid out by Ionian Greeks from Paros in the 4th century BC, the same island we fell for in the Aegean.
Those same boundary lines and field divisions are still being farmed today, making this one of the oldest continuously cultivated landscapes in the world. UNESCO recognised it in 2008, and it's easy to understand why when you're standing in the middle of it.
The plain is one of the few flat areas on Hvar, which makes cycling the obvious way to explore it. Hire a bike in Stari Grad, and you can stop at ancient ruins, wander through lavender fields and take in a landscape that has barely changed in two and a half millennia.
The Cycle Hvar Day Tour is the best way to do it with context. A 27km guided route that takes in the plain, the lavender fields, Vrboska and Jelsa, with the history and stories provided along the way.
It’s an excellent day for anyone who wants to understand the island beyond its coastline.
THE DETAILS
What | Stari Grad Plain, Hvar — UNESCO World Heritage Site
BOOK | Cycle Hvar Day Tour
#4 EAT THE MOST DELICIOUS SEAFOOD AT ANTIKA
After a morning wandering the limestone lanes of Stari Grad, we rounded a corner and found ourselves standing in front of Antika, a rustic konoba with jovial chefs visible through the kitchen and a green outdoor garden upstairs that immediately looked like exactly where we wanted to be.
We took a table, ordered without overthinking it, seafood pasta for Mim, risotto for Mark, and discovered we'd stumbled into one of the most traditional restaurants in Stari Grad.
The food was exceptional. The kind of honest, unfussy cooking that reminds you why Croatian seafood has the reputation it does.
We ended up staying two hours, working through a beer or two and not wanting to leave. The best meal we ate in Stari Grad.
Below are a few additional recommendations if you’re planning to stay in Stari Grad:
Kod Barba Luke | A family-run restaurant that has been operating from a 1643 stone house on Hektorović Square since 1970, named after the grandfather Luka.
The covered terrace under the palm trees with harbour views is one of the nicest dining settings in Stari Grad. Fresh charcoal-grilled seafood is the focus - the grilled seafood platter, mussels and truffle pasta are worth an order.
Konoba Kokot | A short taxi from Stari Grad in the village of Dol, and one of the most incredible dining experiences on the island. A family konoba set in a beautiful garden on the Stari Grad plain, where the Pavičić family breeds their own lamb, goats and pigs and grows their own vegetables.
You arrive to complimentary rakija and dried figs. You leave with a homemade dessert. Everything in between is exceptional.
THE DETAILS
Where | Antika Restaurant, Stari Grad
Tip | Book ahead for dinner, Antika fills up fast, and the garden tables go first
#5 WATCH THE SUNSET FROM GLAVICA HILL, STARI GRAD’S HIGHEST VIEWPOINT
Stari Grad's highest viewpoint rewards the 20-minute climb with one of the best sunset views on the island.
From the top of Glavica Hill, the panorama takes in the whole of Stari Grad below, the Stari Grad plain stretching out to one side, and the rest of the island in front of you.
As the sun drops, the sky moves through gold, pink and deep purple before darkness settles over the town. It's the kind of view that justifies staying somewhere a little longer than you planned.
The hike follows the road out of town toward Rudina, through Mediterranean pine forest that provides welcome shade in the afternoon heat. The trail is marked and straightforward.
Go in the last hour of daylight, bring a cold beer and find somewhere to sit when you get to the top.
THE DETAILS
Where | Glavica Hill, Stari Grad
Getting There | Follow the road out of town toward Rudina, marked trail, 20 minutes from the town centre
Tip | Go in the last hour of light - arrive early enough to find a good spot before the sunset crowd
#6 ADMIRE THE HISTORICAL ST. STEPHEN’S CHURCH (SVETI STJEPAN)
Neither of us is particularly religious, but St Stephen's Church is hard to walk past and worth stepping inside.
The bell tower is almost ever-present when wandering Stari Grad's limestone lanes, visible from most of the old town and a useful landmark for navigation.
The church itself has a genuinely layered history: originally built in the 9th or 10th century, it served as the cathedral for the Bishop of Hvar from 1147 until 1278, was heavily damaged during the Ottoman raids of 1571 and demolished and rebuilt in the early 1600s in the Dalmatian Baroque style you see today.
The interior is typically grand, but the standout detail is easily missed: on the right side of the church, an ancient gravestone relief sculpture of Eros, one of the rare surviving remains of the original Ancient Greek city that stood here before everything else.
THE DETAILS
Where | St Stephen's Church, Stari Grad
Tip | Look for the Eros relief on the right side of the interior - easy to miss but one of the most historically significant objects in town
#7 WINE TASTING, GLORIOUS FOOD AND LAVENDER FIELDS AT HORA FARM
Hvar has been producing wine since the ancient Greeks planted the island's first vines in 384 BC, and the Stari Grad plain, where those vines were first cultivated, is still producing some of the finest wine in the Adriatic today.
Hora Farm, located on the UNESCO-listed plain, is the most direct way to experience that history.
A family-run winery where the owners walk you through the history of the farm and the grape varieties they grow before a proper tasting session.
The terrace overlooking the vineyard is where it all happens: local Dalmatian food, a glass of something cold and Croatian in hand, cicadas doing their thing in the afternoon heat. Exactly as it should be.
For a broader tour of the island's wine culture, including ancient wine cellars and olive oil tastings, this Hvar wine tasting tour is worth booking.
For the version that ends with a full Dalmatian dinner in a village, this one is our pick.
THE DETAILS
Where | Hora Farm, Stari Grad Plain
Hours | Daily May 1 to October 1, 12 pm to 8 pm
BOOK | Hvar wine tasting tour or wine tour with Dalmatian dinner
#8 RELAX AND SWIM AT OSLIC BEACH IN TOWN
Let's be honest: the beaches immediately around Stari Grad are not the best on Hvar. If you have a car, the beaches around Vrboska, Jelsa, or the South Coast are worth the drive.
But for a quick swim close to town, there are a few decent options:
LANTERNA (OSLIC BEACH)
The closest beach to the town centre is a short walk from the old town. A typically Dalmatian mix of small sand, concrete and rocks rather than a sweeping bay, but perfectly fine for a swim and a lovely spot for sunset. From mid-July to mid-August, the sun drops directly into the sea from here - the best evening light near town.
The beach bar Tramonto sits right alongside it: well-priced cocktails, a few sun loungers and a low-key vibe that makes it easy to stay longer than planned. Gets busy in the early afternoon and gets a little choppy later as the sea breeze picks up, so arrive in the morning or come back in the evening.
KUPALIŠTE BONJ
On the northern side of Stari Grad Bay, a gentle, shallow and family-friendly pebble beach with safe water for children. Restaurant Jerolim is nearby, and a small waterfront chapel adds a bit of character.
An easy, relaxed option close to town.
KUPALIŠTE PLOČE
Just past Hotel Arkada, with a mix of concrete platforms, pebble and rock. Clean water, bars and restrooms nearby. The further you walk along the coast from here, the quieter and more secluded the coves become, eventually becoming FKK at the end of the path.
For the spectacular beaches, hire a car and head south. Our Hvar beaches guide covers every beach worth visiting across the whole island.
HVAR BEACHES | 11 incredible places to swim on Hvar
#9 EAT ALL THE ICE CREAM, INCLUDING LAVENDER
On an island famous for its lavender, it follows that lavender ice cream is everywhere. What we didn't expect was for it to be actually good.
Floral and herbaceous without being overwhelming, light purple and creamy - it's one of those small, specific things that ends up being a highlight of the trip. We live by the rule that an ice cream a day keeps the doctor away, so we took our research seriously.
The best we found on Hvar was on Stari Grad's Riva, about halfway down, from a stall we can't remember the name of but would recognise immediately.
The flavours tasted more authentically floral than anything we tried in Hvar Town. Keep an eye out as you stroll the promenade and follow your instincts.
Don't leave without trying it.
#10 ENJOY EVERYTHING GOURMET AT ZA POD ZUB
On Srinjo Kola, the historic Middle Street of Stari Grad's old town, Za Pod Zub is the kind of shop you walk into for five minutes and leave an hour later with more than you planned to buy.
Run by a French couple, Chloe and Yvan, the name is a Dalmatian expression meaning "good bite for under the tooth" - and the store lives up to it completely.
Premium local produce sourced from Hvar and across Croatia: olives, cheese, truffles, honey, marmalades, chocolate, craft beer and some of the best wine on the island. And everything is available to sample before you buy.
We stayed close to an hour, worked our way through the olives (we bought a tub and ate the entire thing before leaving Stari Grad), sampled the local wine and got to know Chloe and Yvan's story along the way - getting to know the people behind a place is always a bonus you don't expect.
THE DETAILS
Where |Za Pod Zub, Srinjo kola
#11 EXPLORE THE TOWNS AROUND STARI GRAD
Stari Grad makes an excellent base for exploring the rest of the island, and three nearby towns are worth adding to your itinerary.
BRUSJE & THE LAVENDER FIELDS
A short drive from Stari Grad, the 16th-century shepherd settlement of Brusje sits in a gentle state of beautiful decay, rustic limestone homes, narrow lanes and surrounding fields of lavender that turn the hillsides purple in late June.
The Lavender Festival in neighbouring Velo Grablje happens around the same time and is worth timing your visit around.
The mandatory stop is Izletište Family Farm, which serves traditional Dalmatian cuisine, fresh juices, lavender-infused honey and some of the best views on the island. The kind of lunch that turns into an afternoon without you noticing.
VRBOSKA
About 15 minutes from Stari Grad, Vrboska is the quietest and most local town on the island.
A single canal, stone arch bridges, a remarkable fortress church and a handful of excellent seafood spots. We had one of the best lunches of our trip here.
Our Vrboska guide covers everything worth doing.
JELSA
Another 10 minutes further east, Jelsa is the most family-friendly town on the island — a pretty harbour, calm shallow beaches at Mina Bay, good seafood restaurants and easy access to the island's wineries.
Worth a half-day from Stari Grad, particularly if you want to combine a winery visit with a beach afternoon.
THE DETAILS
Where | Brusje, Hvar
Eat | Izletište Family Farm, Brusje - don't skip the lavender honey
Best time for lavender | Late June - combine with the Lavender Festival in Velo Grablje
Read more | Vrboska Guide
A MAP OF THE BEST THINGS TO DO IN STARI GRAD
To make planning your time easier, we've put together a detailed Google Map pinning everything covered in this guide - the best things to do, where to eat, the beaches and the key landmarks — all in one place.
To save it, click the map and hit the star next to the map title. It'll save directly to Your Places in Google Maps, ready to use on the ground.
Tip: the map works offline too, so download it before you lose signal on the island.
PLAN YOUR VISIT TO STARI GRAD
WHY YOU SHOULD VISIT STARI GRAD
Stari Grad's appeal is simple: it's everything Hvar Town is, minus the crowds, the noise and the prices. While Hvar Town handles the day-trippers, the party crowd and the superyacht set, Stari Grad attracts a quieter clientele. Those who prefer to take things as they come.
No nightclubs, no rowdy backpackers, no queuing for restaurants. Just beautiful limestone streets, picturesque squares, brilliant konobas, endless Aperol Spritzes and a pace of life that makes you want to stay longer than planned.
After three visits, we'll say it plainly: we should have based ourselves here from the start.
WHERE IS STARI GRAD?
Stari Grad sits on the northern side of Hvar Island, off Croatia's Dalmatian coast, about an hour by ferry from Split.
One of the oldest continuously inhabited towns in Europe, it was settled by Greek colonists in 384 BC and has been fought over by Romans, Venetians, Ottomans and Austrians ever since.
The long-protected bay and fertile agricultural plain that drew those first settlers are still the defining features of the town today.
WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT STARI GRAD?
May through early June and September into October are our strong recommendations. The sea is warm, the days are long, the crowds are manageable and prices across accommodation, food and drinks are noticeably lower than peak season.
July and August are busy across the whole island, but Stari Grad handles it considerably better than Hvar Town.
The town's character and pace are more resilient to tourist pressure, and you're unlikely to feel overwhelmed even in the height of summer.
HOW LONG TO SPEND IN STARI GRAD?
A half-day is enough to see the old town highlights. Two full days lets you properly explore the Riva, the laneways, the Stari Grad plain, a winery and a beach or two.
If you're using Stari Grad as a base for the whole island, three to five nights is the sweet spot - enough time to day trip to Hvar Town, Vrboska, Jelsa and the south coast beaches without rushing anything.
DO YOU NEED A CAR IN STARI GRAD?
The town itself is completely walkable. For exploring the rest of the island - the south coast beaches, Brusje, the wineries, and Hvar Town - a car makes a significant difference.
Search for car rental on Hvar via Discover Cars and book well in advance in summer.
The bus to Hvar Town runs regularly and is perfectly reliable for that specific route - our Hvar Town to Stari Grad transport guide covers timings and options in full.
HOW TO GET FROM STARI GRAD TO HVAR TOWN
The Cazmatrans bus runs between Stari Grad and Hvar Town around four times daily, with the journey taking 20 minutes. Tickets cost €2-4 and are bought directly from the driver, no advance booking is needed.
The bus stop in Stari Grad is 350 metres from the Riva.
As schedules change seasonally, always check the current timetable before travelling: cazmatrans.hr
Alternatively, a taxi takes around 20-25 minutes and costs around €30-35. If you're a group, it's worth splitting.
For the full breakdown of every transport option between the two towns, our Hvar Town to Stari Grad guide covers everything.
IS STARI GRAD BETTER THAN HVAR TOWN?
Different, rather than better. Hvar Town has the most beautiful harbour in the Adriatic, the best access to the Pakleni Islands and the full range of accommodation and nightlife.
Stari Grad has more character, more authenticity, lower prices and a pace of life that's genuinely harder to find on the island as it becomes more popular.
If you're choosing a base: Hvar Town if you want to be in the middle of everything. Stari Grad if you want to feel like you're actually on a Croatian island, or enjoy slow travel.
book without fear | our complete guide to airbnb
HOW TO GET FROM SPLIT TO STARI GRAD
Stari Grad has its own direct car ferry from Split, operated by Jadrolinija, making it one of the easiest towns to reach on the island. Up to seven daily services run during peak summer months, with the crossing taking around two hours.
Book tickets in advance - summer sailings fill up fast, particularly for cars.
Alternatively, take the faster catamaran or ferry to Hvar Town and connect by bus to Stari Grad. The bus takes around 20 minutes and runs regularly. This route gives you more flexibility on departure times but adds a connection.
Book ferry tickets via FerryHopper - we used them throughout our time in Croatia and found it the easiest way to compare routes and times. Book at least 24 hours in advance in peak season, 72 hours for the direct Split to Stari Grad car ferry.
READ MORE | Split to Hvar Island transport guide
TRAVEL INSURANCE FOR CROATIA
Honest take: if something goes wrong, a medical emergency, a missed ferry, a scooter accident on a Croatian coastal road, travel insurance is the difference between a stressful story and a catastrophic one.
After 10+ years of full-time travel, here's what we use and recommend:
FOR TRAVELLERS | World Nomads offers travel insurance for independent travellers and intrepid families. Their policies offer coverage for more than 150 activities as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more.
Get a quote from World Nomads →
READ | Our ultimate guide to travel insurance
PLAN YOUR VISIT TO HVAR ISLAND?
Make the most of your time on Hvar with our essential Croatia travel guides.
EXPLORE HVAR
Start with these guides to help plan your time on the island:
Hvar Island Guide — 21 things to know before you visit
WHERE TO STAY ON HVAR
Where to Stay on Hvar Island — hotels, guesthouses and hostels
MORE CROATIA
Dubrovnik | 10 Things to Do in Dubrovnik
Have you been to Hvar yourself? Help your fellow travellers our by sharing your favourite things to do in Hvar Island, Croatia in the comments below!
HEADING TO CROATIA? YOU’LL LOVE THESE GUIDES TOO!
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