First Time on Hvar Island? Here's Everything Worth Doing (2026 Guide)
Hvar is so much more than its party reputation, and six weeks spent on the island taught us exactly what that means. From the limestone lanes of Stari Grad to deserted southern coves, lavender fields, world-class wine and konobas serving the day's catch, here's everything on Hvar actually worth your time.
We arrived on Hvar Island with high expectations and left with those expectations well and truly shattered in the best way possible. Six weeks on the island will do that.
But here's what nobody tells you before you go: the Hvar you'll love, and the Hvar you've probably heard about are two completely different places.
The version you've heard about - the celebrity playground, the Adriatic party island, the destination that makes Dubrovnik look quiet - exists, and it's concentrated almost entirely in Hvar Town in July and August.
Peak season Hvar Town is genuinely overwhelming: crowds that make the narrow laneways feel impassable, restaurants that have stopped trying because they don't need to, cocktail prices that would embarrass a London rooftop bar, and a harbour full of superyachts that rather sets the tone.
The Hvar we fell for is everything else.
The limestone lanes and ancient harbour of Stari Grad. The almost-empty beaches along the island's south coast. The crystal-clear lagoons of the Pakleni Islands.
The home-style konobas in Vrboska serving whatever came in that morning. The lavender fields and vineyards of the interior that feel completely removed from the crowds below. And yes, Hvar Town itself, at 7 am before the day-trippers arrive, or in late September when the superyachts have left, and the town remembers what it actually is.
This guide is designed to help you find that version. Not to avoid Hvar Town, as it's genuinely one of the most beautiful places in the Adriatic, but to understand the island as a whole, so you can make the most of every day you're there.
Here's where to start.
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HVAR ISLAND
THINGS TO DO
DON'T MISS | Hvar Town at golden hour, Stari Grad's ancient lanes, the Pakleni Islands by boat, a konoba lunch in Vrboska, the lavender fields in bloom
BEST BEACHES | Malo Zaraće, Dubovica, Pokonji Dol
BEST FOOD EXPERIENCES | Fresh catch at a Stari Grad konoba, wine tasting in the Plavac Mali vineyard
BEST SUNSET SPOTS | Hvar Fortress (Španjola), Adriana Hotel rooftop, Stari Grad harbour
BEST DAY TRIP | Pakleni Islands by boat
BEST FOR FIRST-TIMERS | Hvar Town, Stari Grad, Pakleni Islands, Dubovica Beach
TOP TOURS | Hvar Town guided walking tour, Hvar wine tasting tour, Hvar Hidden Gems Day Tour
HVAR ITINERARY | HOW TO SPEND 3 & 7 DAYS ON HVAR ISLAND
3 Days IN HVAR | THE FIRST-TIMER ITINERARY
Three days is enough to get a genuine feel for the island if you use them well. Base yourself in Hvar Town and don't waste time.
Day 1: Hvar Town | morning in St Stephen's Square and up to Španjola Fortress before the heat builds. Lunch somewhere off the main strip. Afternoon at Pokonji Dol Beach, a 25-minute walk from town. Sunset drinks at Falko Bar, dinner at Konoba Menego on the way back.
Day 2: Pakleni Islands | hire a boat from the harbour or join a guided tour and spend the full day on the water. This is the day most people remember longest. Book in advance.
Day 3: Stari Grad and the Interior | drive or bus to Stari Grad for the morning. Wander the limestone lanes, stop at Za Pod Zub for local produce, and lunch at Antika. On the way back, detour through Brusje if the lavender is in season. Final sunset from Napoleon Fortress.
7 DAYS IN HVAR | THE SLOW TRAVEL ITINERARY
Seven days on Hvar Island let you slow down and take a breath. Base yourself in Stari Grad for the quieter, more authentic experience than Hvar Town, which is 20 minutes away for when you want to visit.
Day 1: Arrive and Settle | Ferry into Stari Grad, check in, slow afternoon in the limestone lanes. Dinner at a local konoba. Early night.
Day 2: Stari Grad in Depth | Morning at the Stari Grad plain (UNESCO-listed, extraordinary on a bike), afternoon at a quiet cove nearby, evening at Za Pod Zub for wine and local produce.
Day 3: Hvar Town | Spend a full day in the main town. Španjola Fortress in the morning, St Stephen's Square, the Franciscan Monastery, Nonica's pastries, sunset at Falko Bar. Stay for dinner, bus back to Stari Grad.
Day 4: Pakleni Islands | The best day of the trip. Hire a boat or join a guided sailing tour. Spend the day swimming in deserted bays. Book well in advance.
Day 5: Vrboska and the Wine Route | Drive to Vrboska for the morning, the canal, the fortress church, lunch at Trica Gardelin. Afternoon at a winery — Zlatan Otok or Duboković, depending on your route. Back via Jelsa for a cold drink by the harbour.
Day 6: VW Beetle Day | Hire a classic VW from Rapidus and spend the day making your way around the island. Lavender fields at Brusje, gelato in Jelsa, swim at Ivan Dolac, sunset from Napoleon Fortress. One of our favourite days on Hvar across six weeks.
Day 7: Beach Day and Farewell | Slow morning, one final swim at Malo Zaraće or Dubovica, long lunch at a konoba. Ferry back to Split in the evening.
THE BEST THINGS TO DO ON HVAR ISLAND
#1 EXPLORE HVAR ISLAND’S BEST BEACHES
Croatia knows how to do beaches, and Hvar Island might be the best of it.
Over six weeks on the island, we covered as much coastline as we could, from the tourist-facing coves near Hvar Town to the hidden bays that take a bit of effort to find.
Our personal highlights: Malo Zaraće, our favourite beach on the island, a secluded bay about 30 minutes from Hvar Town that we've never seen crowded; Dubovica, one of the most beautiful bays on the Adriatic, surrounded by pine trees and olive groves with a konoba worth stopping at; and Pokonji Dol, the best beach within walking distance of Hvar Town, with that particular shade of Adriatic turquoise that stops you in your tracks.
For the full breakdown of every beach worth visiting, including how to get there, what to expect and which to skip, our Hvar beaches guide has it all covered.
READ MORE | Our guide to Hvar’s best beaches
#2 EXPLORE THE PAKLENI ISLANDS ARCHIPELAGO
The best day we spent on Hvar, across six weeks on the island, was hiring a small pasara boat and spending the day exploring the Pakleni Islands.
No prior boating experience between us, somehow navigating the Hvar strait, dropping anchor in deserted turquoise bays and jumping off the bow all day. It was, simply, perfect.
You have two options: hire a self-drive boat and go at your own pace, or join a guided sailing tour if you'd rather let someone else handle the navigation. Both are genuinely excellent days out, and the archipelago is stunning either way.
For everything you need to plan your Pakleni day, which bays to visit, how to hire a boat, what to pack and the practical tips we wish someone had told us, our Pakleni Islands guide covers it all.
THE DETAILS
Where | Pakleni (or Paklinski) Islands, Hvar
Read | The best day trip from Hvar - Pakleni Islands guide
BOOK | Pakleni Islands half-day yacht trip - guided sailing with swimming and snorkelling included
#3 LIVE YOUR BEST LIFE EXPLORING HVAR IN A VOLKSWAGEN BEETLE
This one needs no justification, just trust us.
We hired a classic VW Beetle from and spent a day making our way around the island at approximately 60km/h with the windows down and very few plans.
Through lavender fields to the tiny village of Brusje, into the ancient Venetian streets of Stari Grad, gelato in Jelsa, a swim in the impossibly clear waters at Ivan Dolac, and a finale watching the sunset from the Napoleonic fort overlooking Hvar and the Pakleni Islands. Bloody magic.
Fair warning, though: the Beetle is a handful. Manual gearbox, no power steering, a top speed that makes Croatian tunnels feel like an adventure. Not for the faint-hearted, but absolutely worth it for the experience.
THE DETAILS
What |Rapidus Car Hire, Hvar town
Book | Check availability on the Rapidus website here
Tips | Manual licence required; bring a towel for the leather seats and steering wheel - they get scorching in summer; fill up with fuel before returning
paradise found | 11 incredible beaches on hvar island
#4 TAKE IN THE INCREDIBLE VIEWS OF HVAR TOWN FROM ŠPANJOLA FORTRESS (HVAR FORT)
The most iconic view on Hvar isn't from the harbour or the Riva, it's from high above the town at Španjola Fortress, where the red rooftops, limestone walls and turquoise waters of the Pakleni Islands stretch out below you in a way that stops conversation.
The fortress has stood here since the 13th century, built on the site of a 6th-century Byzantine citadel. In 1571, it sheltered the entire local population when the Turks attacked and burned Hvar Town to the ground.
Today it's considerably more relaxed, and features a small museum inside that displays artefacts recovered from the seabed around Hvar, and the ramparts offer 360-degree views that are among the best in Dalmatia.
Getting there is straightforward: follow the signs from St Stephen's Square, up the stairs and past the town walls, then a gentle winding walk through pine forest to the entrance. Allow 20–30 minutes from town.
Go at sunset if you can - the light on the islands below is extraordinary.
On the way back down, Konoba Menego is right on the path and worth stopping at for a Dalmatian dinner.
THE DETAILS
Where |Spanjola Fortress, Hvar
Opening hours | Daily 8 am–9 pm (April–October)
Cost | €10 per person
Tip | Go at sunset, and the walk back down through the pine forest in the evening light is half the experience
#5 WALK THE OLD STREETS OF STARI GRAD
After our third visit, we'll admit it: we made a mistake spending our entire six weeks on Hvar based in Hvar Town.
Stari Grad is quieter, cheaper, friendlier and just as beautiful, and it was more us. It might be more you too.
The ancient white-stone streets and laneways are perfect for slow mornings with nowhere to be. Around every corner: a historic church, a bougainvillea-covered staircase, a hidden archway.
The epicentre is Srinjo kola (Middle Street), lined with cafes, delis and traditional stores, including Za Pod Zub, a gourmet shop run by a French couple stocking premium local produce. The olives alone are worth a stop.
For everything worth doing, eating and seeing in Stari Grad, our complete Stari Grad guide has it covered, including Antika restaurant, which served us the best meal we had on the entire island.
THE DETAILS
Where |Srinjo kola, Stari Grad
Don’t miss | Za Pod Zub for local produce, Antika for dinner
Stay |Hotel Antica, or this Stone House in the centre of town
#6 EAT AT STARI GRAD’S BEST RESTAURANTS, ANTIKA
We stumbled into Antika hungry and left two hours later, full and considerably happier.
One of the most traditional konobas in Stari Grad, with a green garden courtyard, jovial staff and food that reminded us why Croatian cuisine deserves more credit than it gets.
The best meal we ate on Hvar, and we ate a lot of meals on Hvar. Book a table, order whatever's fresh, stay longer than you planned.
THE DETAILS
Where | Antika restaurant, Stari Grad
Read more | Things to Do in Stari Grad
#7 SAMPLE HVAR’S BEST WINES
Hvar has been producing wine since the ancient Greeks planted the island's first vines in 384 BC, and with over 2,700 hours of sunshine per year and a climate that's almost unfairly good for viticulture, the island has developed into one of the finest wine regions in the Adriatic.
The star variety is Plavac Mali, a bold, full-bodied red grown on the steep slopes around Sveta Nedilja that's unlike anything you'll find outside Dalmatia.
The vineyards clinging to those slopes, with the sea far below, produce some of the most characterful wine in Europe.
The best wineries to visit are spread across the UNESCO-listed Stari Grad plain, around Jelsa and along the Sveta Nedilja coast. Our picks: Zlatan Otok in Sveta Nedilja for the setting alone, Duboković in Jelsa for the Plavac Mali, and Vino Tomić for a more intimate, family-run experience.
What stays with us isn't necessarily the wines themselves, it's the whole experience. A terrace overlooking the vineyards, a board of local cheese, cicadas absolutely losing their minds in the afternoon heat, a glass of something cold and Croatian in hand.
If you'd rather have someone else navigate the island's wine roads, this Hvar wine tasting tour visits ancient wine cellars with tastings paired to local produce and olive oil. For the full experience, this version includes a traditional Dalmatian dinner in one of the island's hilltop villages, worth it if you want to make a proper evening of it.
There are worse ways to spend an afternoon on a Croatian island.
BOOK | Discover Hvar’s wine scene on this wine tasting tour - or opt for this tour that includes dinner
#8 PEOPLE WATCH IN ST. STEPHENS SQUARE, AND EXPLORE HVAR CATHEDRAL
St Stephen's Square is one of the most beautiful public spaces we've found in Europe, and we don't say that lightly.
The largest old square in Dalmatia, it's surrounded by Venetian and Renaissance architecture: the Cathedral of St Stephen, the bell tower, the Arsenal, and the old loggia. Historically, the centre of public life in Hvar, and still very much that today.
Our favourite daily ritual was sitting in the square and watching the world go by, generally with a börek or ice cream in hand. Little old ladies gossiping in the shade. Locals stopping mid-stride to chat. Tourists slipping on the polished stone (relatable - we'd done the same a few weeks earlier). A busker launching into a brilliant rendition of Hallelujah that somehow worked perfectly.
On one visit, we caught the Corpus Christi procession, with locals filling the square in traditional dress. On another, St Prošper's day, when the square came alive with vendors and ceremony. These are the moments that stay.
The Cathedral of St Stephen, baroque, built in the 16th and 17th centuries during the Dalmatian Renaissance, provides the square's picturesque backdrop. Step inside for the stone reliefs and 15th-century choir stalls if you have time.
One honest tip: the restaurants and bars on the square are almost universally overpriced and trading on location rather than quality. Walk two streets into the old town, and you'll eat and drink considerably better for considerably less.
If you want the full historical context for what you're looking at, this guided walking tour covers the square, the cathedral, the Arsenal and the rest of Hvar Town's old city in around two hours. One of the better Hvar Tours, and a great way to spend your first morning on the island.
THE DETAILS
Where | Hvarska pjaca, Hvar
Cathedral Hours | Daily - check locally for current times
BOOK | Take in Hvar’s sights on foot with this guided walking tour
#9 EXPLORE HVAR’S STUNNING ‘LITTLE VENICE’, VRBOSKA
Little Venice is a stretch, as there's only one canal, but Vrboska deserves its reputation as one of the most charming towns on Hvar regardless.
Quieter than Stari Grad, almost entirely off the radar of day-trippers from Hvar Town, and with a pace of life that makes even Stari Grad feel hurried by comparison.
We spent an afternoon here, wandering the canal-side lanes, crossing the stone arch bridges, visiting the extraordinary fortress church of Saint Mary (a church that doubled as a military refuge during times of war - the architecture tells the whole story), and eating at Trica Gardelin, a konoba we'd happily go back to tomorrow.
If the crowds of Hvar Town are getting to you, Vrboska is the antidote. An easy drive from anywhere on the island and worth every minute.
For the full guide to what to see, eat and do, our Vrboska guide covers everything.
THE DETAILS
Where | Vrboska
Eat | Trica Gardelin
READ | Our complete guide to Vrboska
a mediterranean dream: our favourite things to do in hvar town
#10 VISIT THE FRANCISCAN MONASTERY
The Franciscan Monastery sitting on its small cove just east of the Riva is Hvar's most iconic view, and one of those rare cases where the reality matches the postcard.
A short walk from the harbour, the monastery houses a surprisingly rich collection: Greek, Roman and Venetian coins, rare amphora, and a 1524 edition of Ptolemy's Atlas that alone justifies the entrance fee.
The centrepiece is a remarkable 16th-century painting of The Last Supper by Venetian painter Matteo Ingoli, large, detailed and genuinely impressive in a space this intimate.
Allow an hour. It fits naturally between a morning swim and an afternoon gelato, and the cove setting makes the walk there half the pleasure.
THE DETAILS
Where |Franciscan Monastery and museum, Šetalište put Križa 15
Opening hours | Mon - Sat, 9:00 - 15:00 & 15:00 - 19:00 (May - Oct)
Tip | Go in the morning, the light on the cove is at its best, and the crowds are thinner
#11 TAKE A HVAR BLUE AND GREEN CAVE DAY TOUR
The Blue Cave on the island of Biševo is one of the most incredible natural phenomena in the Adriatic, an iridescent silver-blue light show created by sunlight refracting through an underwater opening, best experienced between 11 am and noon when the effect peaks.
It's consistently one of the most highly rated experiences in Croatia, and a day trip from Hvar makes it easy to get there.
The standard tour combines the Blue Cave with the Green Cave's emerald-lit waters, a stop at Stiniva Cove, one of Croatia's most beautiful beaches, tucked between towering cliffs, and lunch at the Pakleni Islands.
A full, exceptional day on the water.
For those wanting to add Vis, the island that doubled as the Greek island setting in Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again, this extended tour covers both and is worth every extra hour.
BOOK | The Blue & Green Cave Day Tour or this tour that includes Vis Island too
#12 PARTY - OR DON’T - ON HVAR ISLAND
We love a good night out. So it was with genuine excitement that we decided to experience Hvar's infamous party scene.
After a few nights across the main clubs and bars, we arrived at a conclusion that surprised us: the parties were, frankly, disappointing.
Not because the music was bad or the venues were ordinary, but because the vibe was distinctly average and the crowd, particularly in peak season, behaved with a spectacular lack of respect for anyone or anything around them.
We watched drunk tourists launching glass bottles over other people's heads into the sea at Hula Hula Bar. We watched groups staggering home through the old town at 8 am, shouting.
After six weeks on the island, we got to know some locals well enough to ask them directly what they thought of it all.
The response was always the same: disbelief at what their island had become. Stories of tourists having sex in St Stephen's Square at dawn, of vandalism in the old town, of bass lines that rattle through walls until sunrise. People who love this place watch it be treated as a backdrop for someone else's bender.
As fellow travellers, we think that's worth saying plainly.
None of which means you shouldn't enjoy yourself on Hvar; the nightlife, done well, can be genuinely fun. Get a little loose, stay out late, have a brilliant time. Just bring some basic respect for a community that will be living here long after you've sobered up and flown home.
As for where to go: skip Hula Hula - it’s overpriced and overrated.
Carpe Diem is the better option, and Falko Bar is worth knowing about for a more relaxed late-night drink.
THE DETAILS
Where |Carpe Diem
travel better | 26 responsible travel tips for decent humans
#13 SUNSET DRINKS AT FALKO BAR
We spent our final night on Hvar at Falko Bar, nursing cold beers and watching one last golden sunset over the Adriatic. It was the right way to end six weeks on the island.
Set amongst Mediterranean pine trees at the far eastern edge of Hvar Town, about 2km from St Stephen's Square, Falko is everything the main strip isn't.
Hammocks strung between trees, sun loungers on the rocky shore, reasonably priced cocktails and beers, vegetarian-friendly food, and a soundtrack that never tips into obnoxious. You can swim, you can doze, you can watch the light change for hours. And nobody is throwing bottles into the sea.
The walk from town takes about 25 minutes along the coast path and is worth doing slowly.
THE DETAILS
Where |Falko Beach Bar, Hvar
Tip | Go for sunset, and arrive by 7 pm to secure a hammock or sun lounger
#14 ENJOY THE SUMMER SUNSETS
In Dalmatia, there's an important cultural concept called fjaka.
It's difficult to translate directly, but it’s somewhere between a siesta and mindful presence, a deliberate quieting of everything to just be for a while.
It tends to happen between 1 pm and 5 pm when the heat makes anything purposeful feel faintly absurd. Everyone finds their own version: a slow coffee on a balcony, an afternoon swim, sitting somewhere beautiful and watching the light change.
During our six weeks on Hvar, our fjaka happened at sunset.
Floating on our backs in the glassy Mediterranean as the sky turned gold. Sitting on warm rocks watching the sun drop over the horizon. Hiking to a favourite viewpoint with no particular agenda. Book in hand, nowhere to be.
The sunsets on Hvar are some of the most beautiful we've seen anywhere, and they're the perfect invitation to find your own version of fjaka.
Here are a few suggestions, though the whole point is to find what works for you:
Watch the old town's white stone turn orange from the laneways
Hang on the ramparts of Španjola Fortress as Hvar Town goes golden below
Go for a swim in the glassy late-afternoon sea
Sit on the Riva with an ice cream and absolutely no plans
Join this romantic sunset sailing cruise through the Pakleni Islands with wine
BOOK | Hvar Sunset Sailing Tour
#15 EAT THE BEST OF DALMATIAN CUISINE AT KONOBA MENEGO
There's a Dalmatian saying that fish need to swim three times, first in the sea, then in oil, and finally in wine in the stomach. Konoba Menego takes this seriously.
Tucked into the old town on the path up to Španjola Fortress, and adorned with Croatian antiques and family photographs that look like they've been accumulating for decades, Menego has quietly built one of the best reputations on the island.
The menu is short, traditional and built entirely around what's local and in season.
We started with a vegetable plate dressed in local olive oil, vinegar, honey and garlic, simple and exceptional. Mark had a local polenta chicken dish; Mim had a marinated seafood platter. House wine from a vineyard 5km away. The hospitality was warm, unhurried and completely genuine.
It's the kind of restaurant that reminds you why you came to Croatia.
For a broader taste of Hvar's food scene, this guided food tour covers local honey, olive oil, wine cellars and handmade chocolate, an excellent few hours for food lovers.
THE DETAILS
Where |Konoba Menego, Hvar old town
Opening hours | Mon–Fri: 12 pm–2:30 pm & 6 pm–11 pm · Sat–Sun: 6 pm–11 pm
BOOK | This guided tour of Hvar’s food scene
#16 EAT ALL THE CAKES AND PASTRIES AT NONICA’S
Down one of Hvar's limestone alleyways, Nonica is the kind of place you stumble upon and immediately feel lucky to have found.
A town institution, it serves traditional Dalmatian pastries and cakes baked from recipes that have been in the family for generations.
We ordered the traditional Hvar cake - a sweet, spiced dough cooked in olive oil that tastes like nothing else, and a dense chocolate brownie, both washed down with coffee and cold chocolate. Exactly as good as it sounds.
Beyond the food, it's just a lovely place to sit. Ancient stone streets, a slow pace, people wandering past with nowhere urgent to be. Very Hvar, in the best possible way.
THE DETAILS
Where | Nonica Patisserie, Kroz Burak 23, Hvar
Opening hours | Mon–Sat: 8am–2pm & 5pm–11pm · Sun: 5pm–11pm
Don’t miss | The traditional Hvar cake, order it without overthinking
#17 TAKE A CYCLE TOUR THROUGH THE UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE-LISTED STARI GRAD PLAIN
Here's something that surprised us: the ancient agricultural plots of the Stari Grad plain were laid out by Ionian Greeks from Paros in the 4th century BC, the same island we fell in love with in the Aegean.
Those same plots are still being cultivated today, making this one of the oldest continuously farmed landscapes in the world. UNESCO agreed, listing it as a World Heritage Site in 2008.
The plain is one of the few large flat areas on Hvar, which makes cycling the obvious way to explore it.
The route takes in lavender fields, ancient stone boundary walls, scattered ruins and the kind of unhurried countryside that the coastal towns don't offer. Bikes can be hired in Stari Grad.
The Cycle Hvar Day Tour is the best way to do it properly - a 27km guided route through the plain, via Vrboska and Jelsa, with all the historical context provided along the way.
An excellent day for anyone who wants to see beyond the coastline.
THE DETAILS
What | Stari Grad plain
Read |11 fantastic things to do in Stari Grad
BOOK | See Hvar on two wheels on this Cycle Hvar Day Trip
#18 EAT LAVENDER ICE CREAM
On an island famous for its lavender, it follows that lavender ice cream is everywhere. What we didn't expect was for it to be genuinely good.
Floral and herbaceous without being overwhelming, light purple, creamy and unlike anything you'll find off the island, it's one of those small, specific things that ends up being a highlight of the trip. We live by the rule that an ice cream a day keeps the doctor away, so we took our research seriously.
One honest tip: not all lavender ice cream is created equal. The versions in Stari Grad and Jelsa tend to taste authentically floral; some of the mass-produced options in Hvar Town veer toward soapy. Seek out the smaller, local gelaterias, and you won't be disappointed.
But take it from us, you can't leave Hvar island without trying this local treat.
#19 VISIT THE LAVENDER FARMS IN BRUSJE
Founded in the 16th century as a shepherd settlement, Brusje sits a short drive from Hvar Town in a state of beautiful, unhurried decay - rustic limestone homes, narrow stone lanes and the kind of charm that feels removed from the coastal bustle below.
The surrounding fields are where most of Hvar's lavender is grown, and in late June, the hillsides turn a rolling purple that justifies every photograph you've seen.
The timing also coincides with the Lavender Festival in neighbouring Velo Grablje, which is worth planning around if you can.
If you do head out this way, you MUST eat at Izletiste family farm, which serves traditional Dalmatian cuisine, fresh juices and offers some of the best views of Hvar. They also sell lavender-infused honey, which is a perfect gift for that special someone at home.
THE DETAILS
Where | Brusje
Best time | Late June for the lavender in bloom and the Lavender Festival
Tip | Combine with the VW Beetle day (section #3) - Brusje is on the natural route
#20 TAKE THE BEST VIEWS OF HVAR TOWN AT TVRDAVA NAPOLEON FORTRESS
This one is a genuine hidden gem, and one we're slightly reluctant to share.
Tvrdava Napoleon Fortress sits west of Španjola, on the site of a Napoleonic-era military outpost, and requires a 4km hike from Hvar Town to reach it.
We made the trip at least once a week during our six weeks on the island. Not because we're particularly virtuous hikers, but because the view from the top is the best on Hvar, and possibly one of the best we've seen anywhere in the Adriatic.
From the summit, the sun's arc stretches across an endless horizon. Hvar Town sits below you, the Pakleni Islands fan out to the west, Vis floats in the distance, and Brač rises to the north.
On a clear evening, you can watch the day boats full of tourists begin their slow drift back to the mainland as a quiet calm filters through the ancient streets below. It's one of those views that recalibrates everything.
The hike itself is straightforward but earns its reward, allowing around 45 minutes to an hour each way. Wear proper shoes and bring water.
The path gets full sun, so an early morning or late afternoon start makes a significant difference. A picnic at the top, timed for sunset, is the obvious move and one we'd do again without hesitation.
One practical note: the fortress itself is unrestored and largely unmarked; it's more a dramatic rocky promontory than a tourist attraction.
THE DETAILS
Where |Napoleon Fortress, Hvar
A MAP OF THE BEST THINGS TO DO ON HVAR ISLAND
To make planning your trip easier, we've put together a detailed Google Map pinning the best things to do on Hvar, our recommended restaurants, beaches and towns - everything covered in this guide, all in one place.
To save it, click the map and hit the star next to the map title - it'll save directly to Your Places in Google Maps, ready to use on the ground.
Tip: the map works offline too, so download it before you lose signal on the island.
PLAN YOUR TRIP TO HVAR ISLAND
Hvar sits off Croatia's Dalmatian coast, about an hour by ferry from Split - the island's only practical entry point. It's the longest and sunniest island in Croatia, and one of the most visited in the Adriatic.
For everything you need to know before you arrive, including when to visit, how to get there, how long to spend, what to know about crowds and costs, our Hvar Island Guide covers it all.
The short version on timing: May through early June and September into October are the sweet spots.
Peak summer brings upwards of 20,000 daily visitors to a town that holds 11,000 people year-round. The island handles it, but only just.
WHERE TO STAY ON HVAR ISLAND
Hvar has accommodation options across every budget and travel style, from Michelin-recognised five-star heritage hotels on the main square to characterful Airbnbs in 15th-century stone houses, family-run guesthouses in Stari Grad and party hostels steps from the Riva.
A few of our personal picks: Heraclea House for a genuine luxury splurge in Hvar Town, Villa Varda Latica for the most memorable Airbnb on the island (a 15th-century Gothic mini-palace - we're not exaggerating), and The Green Lizard for the best social scene on a budget.
For the full breakdown across every budget, neighbourhood and property type:
Where to Stay on Hvar Island: hotels, guesthouses and hostels
Best Hvar Airbnbs & Apartments: 15+ picks across every budget
Best Hotels in Stari Grad: for those who want the quieter side of the island
GETTING TO HVAR
All roads to Hvar go through Split. Most European budget airlines fly directly to Split year-round, with significantly more frequency from April through October.
From Split, ferries run regularly to both Hvar Town and Stari Grad; the crossing takes around an hour depending on the service.
Tickets start from around €8 one way and should be booked in advance; in summer, peak season sailings sell out. Book via FerryHopper or at the ticket booths on Split Riva opposite Diocletian's Palace.
For full route options, timings, prices and everything else, our Split to Hvar guide covers every option in detail.
Useful tip | If the direct Split–Hvar Town ferry is full, take the ferry to Stari Grad instead and catch a local bus or taxi to Hvar Town. Same island, different port.
GETTING AROUND HVAR ISLAND
Hvar is more navigable than it looks. Public buses cover the main routes, car and scooter hire is widely available, and for the Pakleni Islands, you'll want a boat.
By Car | The most flexible option for exploring the whole island. Expect to pay around €35–50 per day for a small car. Suncity and Rapidus are both reliable operators in Hvar Town. Must be returned with a full tank.
By Scooter | Good for shorter hops around Hvar Town and the nearby beaches. A 50cc scooter doesn't require a licence, but previous riding experience is strongly recommended. Around €25–35 per day via Suncity. Always wear a helmet.
By VW Beetle | The best way to see the island, obviously. Around €50 per day from Rapidus, including insurance. See section #3 for why this is worth every cent.
By Bus | Simple, cheap and surprisingly reliable for the main routes. The Hvar Town–Stari Grad route runs up to five times daily. For current timetables, use Cazma Trans.
For the full breakdown of the Hvar Town to Stari Grad route specifically, our transport guide covers timings, costs and everything in between.
HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF HVAR (EVEN IN PEAK SEASON)
Hvar in July and August is busy. Very busy.
But there are ways to navigate it that most visitors don't bother with - and they make an enormous difference.
Stay overnight rather than day-tripping | The day-tripper boats from Split arrive mid-morning and leave by early evening. The hours before 9 am and after 6 pm belong almost entirely to overnight guests, and Hvar at those hours is a completely different place.
Eat late | Most day visitors are gone by dinner. Restaurant queues that look impossible at 7 pm are manageable by 8:30 pm, and the town settles into a genuinely lovely evening rhythm.
Base yourself outside Hvar Town | Stari Grad, Vrboska or Jelsa, which give you easy access to the main town while keeping you removed from the noise and price premium of the centre. We'd stay in Stari Grad without hesitation on a return visit.
Go early to the fortress, and viewpoints | Napoleon Fortress and Španjola are genuinely uncrowded before 9 am. The light is better, too.
Visit the interior | The Stari Grad plain, Brusje, the lavender fields, most day-trippers never leave the waterfront. Five minutes inland and the crowds evaporate entirely.
Travel in shoulder season if you can | May, early June, and September are when Hvar is at its best - warm, swimmable, manageable and considerably cheaper. The island doesn't need 20,000 daily visitors to be exceptional. It just needs you to show up with a little time and curiosity.
TRAVEL INSURANCE | STAY SAFE ON HVAR
Honest take: if something goes wrong, a medical emergency, a missed ferry, a scooter accident on a Croatian coastal road, travel insurance is the difference between a stressful story and a catastrophic one.
After 8+ years of full-time travel, here's what we use and recommend.
FOR TRAVELLERS | HeyMondo: Comprehensive travel and medical cover, with an app offering 24-hour medical support and no out-of-pocket fees. Consistently our top pick. Use our link for 5% off your policy.
FOR DIGITAL NOMADS | SafetyWing: Flexible travel and medical cover with the key advantage of being able to purchase a policy while already overseas.
FOR CAR HIRE | Insurance4CarHire: A solid annual policy worth considering if you're renting cars across multiple destinations.
READ | Our ultimate guide to travel insurance
PLANNING TO VISIT HVAR SOON?
Make the most of your time on Hvar with our essential Croatia travel guides.
EXPLORE HVAR
Start with these guides to help plan your time on the island:
Hvar Island Guide — 21 things to know before you visit
WHERE TO STAY ON HVAR
Where to Stay on Hvar Island — hotels, guesthouses and hostels
MORE CROATIA
DUBROVNIK | 10 Things to Do in Dubrovnik
Have you been to Hvar yourself? Help your fellow travellers our by sharing your favourite things to do in Hvar Island, Croatia in the comments below!
HEADING TO CROATIA? YOU’LL LOVE THESE GUIDES
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