Looking for the ultimate guide to Hiriketiya Beach, Sri Lanka? From the best things to do, where to stay, how to get there, and where to eat - we’ve got you covered with this in-depth post on our favourite destination in Sri Lanka!
UPDATED SEPTEMBER 2026
After a long and sweaty three-hour tuk-tuk ride from Unawatuna, we arrived at Hiriketiya Beach on the southern coast of Sri Lanka.
It was love at first sight.
Palm-fringed golden sands, surfers carving up sweet left-handers, cool cafes dishing up an incredible brunch scene; this was a place so beautiful, so peaceful, and so perfect that we knew we'd definitely arrived in heaven.
Funnily enough, Hiriketiya Beach wasn’t a stop we were planning to make on our original Sri Lanka itinerary, but with a need for just a little more ocean therapy before heading north and the chance to hang out with new travel buddies, we decided to head to this jungle paradise on a whim - and boy are we glad we did.
What was once a sleepy hidden gem on Sri Lanka’s south coast with little more than a few wooden huts is fast becoming the ‘it’ place for digital nomads and their acai bowls, bronzed surfers riding waves all day long, and salty-haired wanderers chilling into a new level of zen.
There are surf shops that wouldn’t look out of place in any cool coastal town, beachside bars serving up cocktails from mason jars, and many co-working spaces have popped up in recent years.
As of our most recent visit, the Hiri of old is clinging on for dear life, fighting the dreaded perils of over-tourism in Canggu (and all of Bali, for that matter) in what seems like, at times, a losing battle. It’s scary, seeing a place you love so dearly, falling prey to the ‘progress’.
But despite all this progress, Hiriketiya still manages to be the kind of place where the thick jungle meets the sea and time becomes irrelevant - and we love it for it. Just don’t come expecting a quiet, zen-like bay - those days are now long gone.
If you’re planning a trip along Sri Lanka’s southern coastline (follow our three-week Sri Lanka itinerary here), you need to add a couple of days in Hiriketiya to your itinerary. From what to do, where to stay, and our favourite day trips, this is everything you need to know!
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HIRIKETIYA BEACH AT A GLANCE
WHERE | Hiriketiya, on Sri Lanka’s south coast near Dikwella, around 2.5–3 hours from Colombo
WHY GO | Surfing, swimming, excellent food, jungle-backed beaches, yoga, boutique stays and a very easy few days by the sea
HOW LONG | 3–4 nights is ideal; longer if you’re surfing
BEST TIME TO VISIT | December to March for the most reliable weather and surf
WHAT TO SEE & DO | Surf Hiriketiya Bay, swim at Dikwella, visit Mulkirigala Rock Temple and Wewurukannala Temple, snorkel at Blue Beach Island, take a yoga class, or do very little at all
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK | Smoke & Bitters, RAA, MOND, Duni’s Hoppers, Malkoha, Dots Bay House
HOW TO GET THERE | Train to Wewrukannala or Matara followed by a tuk-tuk; direct bus services run along the south coast; private transfers are the easiest option from Colombo or the airport
BOOK YOUR TRIP TO HIRIKETIYA BEACH
WHERE TO STAY | MOND, Jasper House, Le Cabanon & Dots Bay House · See our full guide to the best hotels in Hirketiya and Dickwella
TOURS & EXPERIENCES | Download the GetYourGuide app to book south-coast experiences - with 5% off your first app booking through our creator offer
GET TO HIRIKETIYA | Take the coastal train from Colombo or the Southern Coast for the experience, and use 12Go to compare trains, buses and private transfers
GET CONNECTED | Set up an Airalo eSIM before you fly and have data ready to go when you arrive in Sri Lanka
TRAVEL INSURANCE | Get a quote from World Nomads, with cover available for 150+ activities
SPEND SMARTER IN SRI LANKA | Get a Wise card to pay in Sri Lankan rupees and skip fees
THE BEST THINGS TO DO IN HIRIKETIYA BEACH
SURF, SURF, SURF AT HIRIKETIYA BEACH
Slowly becoming one of Sri Lanka's premier surf destinations, Hiriketiya Beach is the perfect place to learn to ride the waves or to take your surfing skills to the next level.
Located on a horseshoe-shaped bay with waves rolling in almost all year (10 months in fact), Hiriketiya Beach provides a challenge for all grades of surfers.
There are two breaks at Hiriketiya Beach: the reef break, located in the eastern corner of the bay, and the ever-popular beach break, which is more centrally located.
The reef break is definitely one for the more experienced surfers, with a fast left-hander that lasts for close to 100m, making it one of the better waves on the south coast.
The beach break is perfect for intermediates and beginners, and can roughly be split into two sections - further into the bay is where the waves tend to start, and where the intermediates line up. Further towards the beach is where you’ll find beginners and their teachers, attempting their first ride.
A word of warning, though - as of our most recent visit (2024), it’s pretty hectic out there. Hiri’s popularity has skyrocketed, and as a result, it’s virtually impossible to score a wave without 100 others dropping in on you. The solution? Get up at the break of dawn and beat the rush.
The smaller swell during the peak season (Dec - Feb) is great for beginners, while the waves are at their best during Aug- Dec when intermediate/experienced surfers can take on the left-handers rolling perfectly into shore. Beginners can still surf during this time, but it’s best to try your luck on the sandier beach break.
Boards can be hired from the water’s edge for 300 LKR per hour ($1.50!), it's an absolute bargain.
Also, please remember to use surfing etiquette and respect the locals and their waves.
In our experience, Weligama may be a better place to learn to surf (that’s where we learnt!), although for those with better skills, surfing in Hiriketiya Bay is incredible.
THE DETAILS
Where | Hiriketiya Beach
Book | You can book surf lessons at Hiri Surf School
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SWIM & CHILL AT HIRIKETIYA BEACH
Not into surfing? Fortunately, Hiriketiya Beach is a great place to chill and while away the day.
During our stay, we made a habit of heading down each afternoon to relax, swim, and watch the vibrant Sri Lankan sunsets light up the sky.
The palm-fringed beach isn't the widest nor the most golden-sanded in Sri Lanka, but the setting is magical and the water is clear.
Although surfers fill the bay come midday, there's always enough room to swim, and there are even turtles that swim in the shallows if you're lucky enough to spot one!
If you're after a cheap eat, Roti Hut serves cheap roti and coconuts to the left of the beach - although if you’re in a rush, be warned: we did have to wait about an hour for ours!
Hiriketiya isn’t the only beach in the area, though. Dickwella, a short 15-minute walk away, is far more expansive, allowing for a more relaxed beachside experience - think Mirissa Beach without the crowds (see more below).
ENJOY THE BEACHES BEYOND HIRIKETIYA
Hiriketiya’s bay is the reason most people come here, but on a busy day, it can also be the reason you leave.
It’s a tiny bay, and once the surf schools are out, the line-up fills quickly.
The good news is that the south coast still does what it has always done well: give you another beach ten minutes down the road.
We mention nearby Pehembiya Beach below, but here are a couple of options beyond:
BATHEEGAMA BEACH
Keep going east beyond Dickwella, and you’ll reach Batheegama, a couple of smaller bays backed by palms and golden sand.
The main reason to come is Turtle Point, where green turtles regularly feed in the shallows, and there’s a local conservation project protecting nests and hatchlings along the beach.
You can hire snorkelling gear locally, but give the turtles space - no touching, chasing or surrounding them for a photo.
MAWELLA BEACH & LAGOON
Mawella is what people sometimes imagine Hiriketiya will be before they arrive (or perhaps what it used to be): a long sweep of sand, coconut palms, fishing boats and not very much noise.
It’s around fifteen minutes east and big enough that it rarely feels crowded, with the lagoon running behind the beach and a handful of very good small hotels tucked among the palms.
Halcyon and Simply Peace are both over this way, and it’s a lovely place to base yourself if you want access to Hiri not too far away.
Come here when the plan is basically swim, walk, read, repeat.
SILENT BEACH, TANGALLE
Further east towards Tangalle, Silent Beach is another beautiful crescent of sand backed by thick palms and rock at either end.
It isn’t quite as “silent” as it once was — there are now a handful of beach shacks and loungers — but compared with Hiriketiya in high season it can still feel wonderfully spacious.
It’s around half an hour from Hiri, so we probably wouldn’t make the trip just for an hour. But on a flat, sunny day, combine it with Tangalle or Goyambokka and make an afternoon of it.
GOYAMBOKKA BEACH, TANGALLE
Just beyond Silent Beach is Goyambokka, one of the better swimming beaches around Tangalle.
It’s a smaller, sheltered crescent, with palms right behind the sand and rocky headlands that take some of the force out of the swell.
It’s not empty, and there’s usually a little more life here than at Silent Beach, but it still feels wonderfully low-key after Hiri.
AFTERNOONS & SUNSETS AT DICKWELLA BEACH (PEHEMBIYA BEACH)
Hiriketiya Beach is rather small and due to its size, can get very busy at times, especially during the morning surf lesson rush, or in the later afternoon chill time.
Nearby Dickwella Beach is far larger, with a long stretch of white sand that seems to go on for miles. And dare we say, it’s now our favoured beach in the area, offering a diverse mix of activities, beach bars, and large swathes of sand. And less crowds.
The calmer eastern end, known as Pehembiya Beach (adjacent to Smoke & Bitters), has become a popular rival to Hiriketiya’s bustling sands, with rustic beach bars popping up along its palm-lined fringes.
The affordable beach beds, ample King Coconuts, and golden sand make it a wonderful place to spend the day, and it’s also the perfect place to settle in for the afternoon before a famous Sri Lankan sunset commences.
Machan Place is the pick of the bunch, offering delicious smoothies & drinks, Sri Lankan street food, and affordable sun beds.
Due to its west-facing position, you’ll watch the sky turn all hues of the rainbow before setting into the Indian Ocean, and it’s a mesmerising experience to enjoy.
Finish the day at Smoke & Bitters for the most incredible gastro-experience (see below).
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BEACH CLUB VIBES AT LA PLAYA
On our most recent trip to Hiriketiya, we were surprised (read: shocked) to see the towering La Playa Hiriketiya set right on the beach - Hiri had previously felt like it was avoiding the perils of mass tourism, but seeing La Playa felt like the dawn of the development era for this little coastal paradise.
The building itself is stylish and blends with the surroundings, while the beach club fuses contemporary chic and tropical aesthetics, reminiscent of some of Bali’s best beach clubs. The music is great, the food delicious, and the cocktails wonderful, but it just feels a little out of place when compared to the surrounding offerings.
Now, don’t let us dissuade you from visiting and enjoying yourself in the sun-drenched lap pool while sipping cocktails, for La Playa is perfect for those seeking a more upmarket, boho-vibe.
Maybe we’re getting old and sentimental, but we hold the old Hiri close to our hearts, and any major development to the beachside is hard to handle.
THE DETAILS
Where | La Playa, Hiriketiya Beach
Cost | $$
BOOK | You can also stay right on the beachfront at La Playa, which you can book here
BOUTIQUES & COLLECTIVES | THE BEST SHOPPING IN HIRI
Hiriketiya has changed a lot since we first started coming here, and nowhere is that more obvious than its little shopping scene.
What was once a couple of surf shops and somewhere to buy a sarong has become a surprisingly good collection of small boutiques, local labels and creative spaces. Think barefoot-lifestyle linen, swimwear, prints, ceramics, sunscreen and things you absolutely did not intend to squeeze into your backpack.
Le Ketiya Boutique is still one of our favourites. Founded by South African designer Gabby, it’s great for swimwear and resortwear, including Gabby’s own label, alongside a mix of smaller ethical brands, jewellery and accessories. The shop itself is lovely too - polished concrete, timber, greenery and monkeys occasionally moving across the roof.
Nearby, The Village Collective is a Sri Lankan artisan store showcasing locally-produced art, homewares and lifestyle brands. Think wall art, candles, cosmetics and sustainably sourced tea and coffee. We grabbed a Hiriketiya print for our wall, just to remind us of one of our favourite places in the world.
If your taste runs more towards interiors and objects, helā Concept Studio might be the best place to shop in Hiri. It has a selection of clothing with jewellery, bags, handicrafts and homewares, all in bold, modern colours. Worth a stop.
A newer addition is Kosha, which sits somewhere between a surf shop and a boutique. There’s locally made linen for men and women, bold printed shirts and dresses, surf shorts and bags, plus the useful stuff - zinc, perfume, surf wax and mosquito spray.
Stick No Bills Hiriketiya is now here too. We’ve long loved the original gallery in Galle Fort, and the Hiriketiya outpost carries the same vintage Ceylon and Sri Lanka travel posters.
If you want something from the trip that won’t eventually end up at the back of a wardrobe, this is probably our pick.
Island Luxe Boutique is another newer beachside option, particularly good for linen clothing, swimwear, bags and the inevitable last-minute sunscreen purchase. All the garments are made in Sri Lanka by women who receive fair wages, which we think is a great place to spend money.
And finally, Studio MOND is the hotel’s ceramic workshop and artist space, located in Dikwella town.
There’s usually someone working with clay, MOND runs an artist residency from the space, and there are ceramics, small objects and souvenirs for sale. If you want to bring something home from Hiri that isn’t another sarong or printed tote, this is one of the more interesting places to look.
MARVEL AT BLUE BEACH, NILWELLA
Tucked away in nearby Nilwella lies Blue Beach, a bright-white sandbar that connects the mainland with a ubiquitous palm-filled rocky Sri Lankan outcrop. It’s a photographer’s heaven, especially from above (via drone), with the unique aspects providing some super cool photo opportunities.
On a calm day, the beach is a wonderful place to relax and enjoy a swim away from the crowds of Hiriketiya Beach - just don’t forget to bring some food and water, as the beach has little in the way of amenities.
For divers and snorkellers, the newly created Nilwella Underwater Gallery is a super-cool place to explore the unique beauty of Sri Lanka’s aquatic life. The gallery features a myriad of sculptures, structures and artificial reefs, designed to increase breeding grounds for local fish species and create new coral reefs that encourage tourism.
To go diving or snorkelling, enquire about your accommodation in Hiriketiya.
If you’re into camping, the private island houses a super cool campground - just make sure you get permission (and pay a fee) before camping there.
THE DETAILS
Where | Blue Beach, Nilwella
How to get there | Get to Nilwella fishing village via tuk-tuk, around 300 LKR each way
YOGA, MASSAGE & WELLNESS
For a bay this small, Hiriketiya has developed a fairly serious wellness scene.
There are yoga classes in the morning and evening, massages on almost every road out of the bay, and an ever-increasing number of places doing everything from sound baths to saunas and magnesium pools.
YOGA
If yoga is actually part of your practice, Yoga Shed Hiriketiya is probably the place to start. Hidden about 200m back from the beach, it’s a dedicated jungle shala with a broad weekly schedule - Vinyasa, Ashtanga, Jivamukti, Hatha, Yin, restorative classes, Yoga Nidra and sound sessions among them.
Drop-ins are currently LKR 4,000, with cheaper class passes if you’re staying around for a while.
Salt House remains the easiest option, particularly if you’re staying there: daily yoga is complimentary for guests, and the open shala sits up among the palms, away from most of the noise below.
They also host proper yoga and surf retreats throughout the season.
For something more social, The Salty Surf & Yoga - Hiriketiya Sri Lanka runs multiple classes on most days alongside its surf and retreat programme, while Dots Bay House mixes yoga and fitness into the broader Dots scene, which is handy if you’d rather practise, eat breakfast and then immediately fall into the pool.
MASSAGE & WELLNESS
Massage Shed Hiriketiya has grown into one of the more complete wellness spots in town, tucked into the jungle behind Hiriketiya Road.
Alongside traditional Sri Lankan massage, there are facials, body scrubs and wraps, plus a sauna and magnesium pool, which is useful after several days of surfing.
Tonic Spa Hiriketiya is still here too, offering the more familiar spa setup and a broad massage menu.
There are also plenty of smaller local massage rooms around the bay. If you’ve been surfing hard and want something less spa-like, places specialising in sports and deeper-pressure massage can be a better bet.
Good to know | Yoga classes and massages fill quickly in peak season, particularly early morning and around sunset. Book ahead if there’s a particular teacher or time you want.
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VISIT THE SOUTHERNMOST POINT OF SRI LANKA, DONDRA LIGHTHOUSE
Although Hiri is amazing and you'll never want to leave, we do suggest you set aside a day to make your way to the southernmost tip of Sri Lanka, home of the beautiful Dondra Lighthouse.
Completed in 1890, Dondra lighthouse is Sri Lanka's tallest, and in our opinion, most impressive (although the Galle Fort lighthouse pushes it hard!). The stunning coastal setting, beautiful palms, and lack of tourists means it'll be worth the effort to visit - trust us.
Entry is free and it's easy to get to - hire a tuk tuk to take you directly there, or catch the local bus from Dikwella to Dondra, and walk to the lighthouse from the town centre.
THE DETAILS
Where | Dondra Lighthouse Road, Dondra
Cost | Free entry
Opening hours | 09:00 am - 19:00 pm every day
How to get to Dondra Lighthouse | Local bus is LKR 50 one way from Dickwella
Tuk tuk LKR 500-800 depending on passengers
A UNIQUE CULTURAL FIX AT WEWRUKANNALA VIHARAYA BUDDHIST TEMPLE
Looking to explore something more than the beaches and breaks of Hiriketiya, our kind Airbnb hosts suggested we spend time at Wewrukannala Viharaya Buddhist temple, 1.5kms outside of Dikwella; "it's very unique, you must visit" they reiterated.
Unique is probably an understatement.
Wewrukannala Viharaya draws visitors from all over the country to see the giant Buddha statue, which at 50m in height, is the tallest in Sri Lanka. However, the most unique (and frankly terrifying) part of the temple complex is the Buddhist Hall of Horrors, a long corridor illustrated with ghastly depictions of Buddhist hell.
With each step through the tunnel, we gasped with horror (and a little laughter) as each depiction became more and more shocking.
Highlights, if you can call them that, include sinners being disembowelled, viciously (and graphically) castrated, sawn in half, stabbed with spears, and hacked to pieces.
It takes around an hour to explore the complex - just don't get locked in the hall of horrors, whatever you do.
THE DETAILS
Where | Wewrukannala Viharaya Buddhist temple
Cost | LKR 100 entry pp. A guided tour will cost LKR 50 - 100 per person
MULKIRIGALA ROCK TEMPLE
If Wewrukannala is the strange one, Mulkirigala is the beautiful one.
Around forty minutes inland from Hiriketiya, Mulkirigala cave temple complex rises sharply from the surrounding countryside, not too dissimilar to Dambulla.
The climb is tough, especially in the summer heat, but takes you past some seriously interesting cultural relics, including reclining Buddhas, small shrines and cave ceilings covered in old Kandyan-era paintings.
Mulkirigala’s roots stretch back more than 2,000 years; early Brahmi inscriptions indicate ancient use of the caves, while much of what you see inside today dates from later restorations, particularly the Kandyan period.
There are seven cave temples spread across five terraces, so there’s plenty to stop for on the way up.
We’d probably choose this over Wewrukannala if you’ve only got a short time to explore beyond Hiri. Although, to be fair, nothing at Mulkirigala is quite as shocking as Wewrukannala’s hall of horrors.
The usual temple etiquette applies: cover shoulders and knees, remove shoes and hats around the shrines, and don’t pose with your back to a Buddha image.
THE DETAILS
Where | Mulkirigala, around 40 minutes inland from Hiriketiya
Cost | LKR 500 (2026)
Good to know | There are roughly 500 steps. Go early or later in the afternoon, because doing this in the midday heat is, well, hot
TRADITIONAL CULTURAL EXPERIENCES AT NILWELLA FISHING VILLAGE
While in Hiriketiya we wanted to get an insight into the traditional way of life of Sri Lanka's coastal fisherman, so a local recommended we check out Nilwella fishing village, just north of Hiri.
Arriving at 7 am, we watched as wily fisherman slowly returned to the harbour in traditional outriggers, their arrival triggering a frenzied auction amongst wholesalers looking to snap up the morning's catch.
It was all over in about 30 minutes, and while it was definitely an insightful experience, it shouldn't be top of your list of things to do in Hiriketiya unless you're seeking authentic, cultural experiences.
Also - be aware that there are many packs of stray dogs around this area, and unlike the rest of Sri Lanka’s strays, these ones were a wee bit aggressive.
THE DETAILS
Where | Nilwella fishing village
How to get there | Get to Nilwella fishing village via tuk-tuk, around 300r each way
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK IN HIRIKETIYA
SMOKE & BITTERS
Sri Lanka is home to some of the best sunsets you could ever wish to see. And now Sri Lanka is home to a cocktail bar rated in the top 100 in Asia (read more here): Smoke & Bitters, located just outside of Hiri, at Pehembiya Beach.
Merge the best sunsets with the best cocktails (and food), and add a palm-filled space and excellent staff, and you have probably the best night out in Sri Lanka.
And we should know: we’ve now spent an evening here on two separate trips to Hirikietiya, and both times we’ve walked away agreeing that it was, in fact, the best meal we’ve ever had (Hyperbole? Maybe. Delicious? Yes.).
Smoke & Bitters opened in early 2020 before the pandemic took hold and ceased international travel for the better part of two years. Thankfully, the team at Smoke & Bitters worked hard to keep the business afloat, honing their cocktail varieties and locally sourced ingredients (bitters, syrups, liqueurs and spirit infusions are made in-house!) to create the perfect cocktail menu.
A must-have cocktail is a signature Mai Chai, which uses chai rum, chai tea, orgeat, chai syrup and triple sec to create the ultimate nod to Sri Lanka. Other recommended cocktails include the Peniceylon and, well, anything really!
The food is scarily good, too - a mix of Sri Lankan, Asian and BBQ infusions to create a range of tasty bar food, as well as fine dining plates. Make sure you get the kurumba calamari, made from tempura coconut flesh and topped with salsa. Also, the kalu pol seafood curry is to die for.
One word of warning - it gets super busy here (understandably!), so book in advance.
THE DETAILS
Where | Smoke & Bitters
Cost | Cocktails from 2,900 LKR, small plates from 2,000 LKR, mains from 3,500 LKR
RAA | SRI LANKA'S FIRST TODDY AND ARRACK BAR
If Smoke & Bitters is the reason Hiriketiya ended up on the global cocktail map, RAA is what its founders did next.
Don Ranasinghe and Lahiru 'Lalla' Perera opened it in 2024 at the water's edge at the tip of the bay, and the concept is deceptively simple: a bar built entirely around toddy and arrack.
Raa is the local word for toddy, the fermented sap of the coconut palm, and the whole place is a tribute to the craft.
Twice a day, morning and afternoon, barefoot tappers climb the palms above the bar to harvest the sap by hand, and you can watch it happen from your table. The toddy is then strained into a pot, poured into glasses rimmed with salt and pepper, and it arrives at your table hours, or sometimes minutes, after it left the tree. It’s all very local and cool and unique, and that’s why we love it.
We recommend the Kottamba Toddy, which blends freshly tapped toddy with spiced arrack, sea almond orgeat and Angostura.
The food, like Smoke & Bitters, is just as good, with core Sri Lankan recipes, cooked traditionally.
Arrive for sunset, but just remember to book.
THE DETAILS
Where | Hiriketiya Beach Road, Dodampahala South, at the tip of the bay
Good to know | It gets extremely busy. Book ahead if you can, and if you can't, turn up early rather than hoping
DUNI’S HOPPERS
On our first visit to Hikiketiya in 2019, we stayed with a lovely family and their son, Duni, just outside of town. It was a wonderful little stay and remained seared in our memories over the next few COVID-affected years.
So you can imagine our shock when, in 2024, we stumbled across Duni’s Hoppers and put two and two together. We quickly messaged him and met up for a chat over hoppers & coffee, and it was one of those wonderful full-circle moments that travel often produces.
Anyway, about the food… if you’re not sure what hoppers are, they’re essentially bowl-shaped pancakes made from fermented rice flour and coconut. They’re delicious, and the perfect way to start the day (or for lunch). We’re massive fans of hoppers, and Duni’s delivers the best in town.
You can’t go past the classic hoppers, using Subha’s dahl recipe (Duni’s mother). It’s rich, hearty, and hits the spot every time. The pink hopper, using beetroot, is another winner.
In addition to hoppers, Duni’s serves a range of colourful, vegan smoothie bowls (go for the cacao), reminiscent of those in Canggu. Oh, and the coffee is excellent.
THE DETAILS
Where | Duni’s Hoppers (note: do not visit Arlo’s Hoppers, who completely ripped off Duni’s business and business model)
Cost | Hoppers start from LKR 910, smoothie bowls from LKR 1,930, and coffee from LKR 910
BACUZZI | PROPER ITALIAN
Pizza in Sri Lanka has never worked, apart from that one time in Jaffna where we caved and grabbed a Domino’s after three weeks of Rice and curry; it was, surprisingly, amazing. But Bacuzzi changes things completely.
Run by Italians who now call Hiriketiya home, the kitchen takes its pizza seriously: Neapolitan-style bases, long-fermented dough, hand-stretched and cooked for around 90 seconds in a wood-fired oven.
Many of the ingredients are imported from Italy, while the menu mixes proper classics with a few Sri Lankan touches. It’s for this reason that prices are higher than your average Hiri dinner, but it’s worth it.
The Margherita keeps things simple, while the speciality pizzas are worth a look - burrata, gorgonzola, Italian salumi, smoked scamorza, pecorino and prosciutto all make an appearance. I
If we were ordering, we’d simply enjoy the delights of a margherita, or try the Bionda, with yellow pepper cream, spicy salsiccia and smoked scamorza.
There’s pasta too, while dessert runs from tiramisu to salame di cioccolato.
Drinks are also very Italian, including the goated Aperol Spritz, Limoncello Spritz or Espresso Martini.
Stick No Bills next door is the Hiriketiya outpost of the excellent Galle Fort gallery, filled with vintage Ceylon and Sri Lanka travel posters.
THE DETAILS
Order | Margherita if you want to judge the dough properly; Delicata or Bionda if you don’t
Drink | Aperol Spritz or Karma Dessert | Tiramisu or salame di cioccolato
Good to know | Popular in season, so book ahead or arrive early
LAZY DAYS AT MOND
MOND has been one of our favourite places to eat in Hiriketiya for years, long before we actually stayed here.
The menu is contemporary, seasonal and built around ingredients sourced from nearby growers and producers.
Breakfast is probably what MOND is best known for: excellent coffee, the Mond Hash with rösti, oyster mushrooms, poached eggs and hollandaise (highly recommend), and the Peni Pol Pancake with buffalo curd, mango, passionfruit and lemongrass treacle.
Lunch is lighter and easygoing, while afternoons are good for matcha, fresh juices and house-made coolers - the Rosewater, Lime & Mint is our pick.
Dinner is worth making time for too. The rooftop shifts to sharing plates and cocktails, with a strong plant-based menu alongside seafood and meat. We’d order the focaccia with lunu miris coconut butter, Moju Dosa, and either the Mahi Mahi aguachile or Malu Mala, then add a Mond Gimlet.
It’s one of those rare places that works just as well for breakfast after a surf as it does for a proper dinner and drinks later in the day.
THE DETAILS
Where | MOND Hiriketiya
What it costs | Coffee LKR 800–1,200, breakfast LKR 2,300–2,800, dinner plates LKR 1,200–2,900 and cocktails LKR 2,700–3,600
STAY | MOND is also the best place to stay in Hiri… Book here: EarthShine, Moonlight, Halo, and Crescent
MALKOHA | SPECIALTY COFFEE ON PEHEMBIYA BEACH
When Verse Collective closed in 2025, it left a fairly sizeable hole on Pehembiya Beach. For years it had been a café, hostel, skate bowl, co-working space and general landmark rolled into one.
Malkoha has taken over the site, but thankfully hasn’t tried to recreate it.
This is a much more grown-up affair, built around seriously good specialty coffee and a beautiful open bar looking through the palms towards the sea.
They’ve gone properly deep on the coffee setup, with a Modbar espresso, La Marzocco grinders, V60s and cold drip, but, more importantly, much of what they’re pouring is Sri Lankan-grown coffee.
There’s food too, with an Asian-leaning menu running from breakfast into lunch, before the place shifts towards drinks later in the day.
And then there’s the location. Pehembiya has always been Hiri’s quieter neighbour: a long, open beach with plenty of room to swim and none of the mid-morning surf-school traffic jam.
THE DETAILS
Where | Pehembiya Beach, Dikwella, in the old Verse Collective site
Good to know | Around a 10-minute walk from Hiriketiya Bay. There’s also accommodation on site
SUNSET DRINKS AND CHILLED VIBES AT DOTS, HIRIKETIYA
Sri Lanka isn't really a 'rave till sunrise' type of destination, but beach bars are pretty common across the island and one of our faves is Dots Bay House on Hiriketiya beach.
Set right on the beach, Dots is the most popular place to chill out and enjoy a sundowner or two, chow down on great Western or Sri Lankan food, or simply relax and chat with fellow travellers.
Happy hour occurs from 6-7:30 pm (only applies to cocktails), and we definitely recommend the gin basil smash.
There's also a cool surf store if you're after some threads while in Sri Lanka.
A word of warning - prices can be a little inflated here, so it might be a 'visit once during your stay' kinda place for those on a budget.
THE DETAILS
Where | Dots Bay House, Hiriketiya
BOOK | DotsBayHouse is also a guesthouse. Check prices and availability on here
ENJOY A DREAMY BRUNCH AT LA LUNA
A place so good, we came back three times, La Luna is one the best western-style brunches we've had in Sri Lanka.
The coffee is exceptional, but where La Luna really blew us away is their delicious breakfast options, with ingredients that were so fresh and so tasty we were in foody heaven.
If those options don't take your fancy, the smashed avo and assorted fruit plate are other options worthy of your time.
In the evening, there are artisanal pizzas on offer.
Located opposite Hiriketiya Beach in a beautiful, green setting, La Luna brings the best in design and minimalism to Hiri.
They also have a guesthouse on-site, so if you’re looking for some cool digs across the street from the beach, this is your place.
THE DETAILS
Where | La Luna, Hiriketiya
Cost | Coffees: 400r - 550r, brunch from 850r - 1200r
Opening hours | Daily, 8.30 am - 9 pm
Note | The menu caters for that craving for Western-style food, so don't expect too much in the way of local cuisine
STAY | Book your stay at The Bay Guesthouse here
GARLIC CAFE
We’d long read that Garlic Cafe served the best local food in Hiriketiya. And on our most recent visit, we were able to enjoy it for the first time.
And the reviews were right.
Offering traditional cuisine and affordable prices, Garlic Cafe is excellent. The kottu roti is one of the best we’ve enjoyed in the country, and the rice & curry buffet is tasty.
A visit here is worthwhile, especially for those on a budget or for those sick of overpriced Western food.
THE DETAILS
Where | Garlic Cafe
Cost | Kottu from LKR 1,000, Rice & Curry from LKR 1,000
RICE & CURRY AT JAYANTHA RESTAURANT
We’re happy to admit that Sri Lankan cuisine is among our all-time favourites. The taste, texture, and aroma of the Sri Lankan kitchen are impossible to beat, especially when done well.
After too much Western-style food, we ventured into Dickwella and found the roadside buffet of Jayantha, serving up a delicious array of authentic rice & curry.
After a massive serving of kottu, and vegetarian curries, we left satisfied - so much so, we returned the next day. The buffet varies from day to day, but follows the same traditional menu of this region - and the prices are super affordable for those on a budget.
THE DETAILS
Where | Jayantha, Dickwella town
OTHER RESTAURANTS TO VISIT IN HIRIKETIYA
Malu Poke | The best poke bowls in Sri Lanka, serving both seafood and veggie options. Also serves smoothie bowls, perfect for the post-surf breakfast. Bowls start from 1,200 LKR
Roti Hut | Located right on Hiri beach, Roti Hut serves up, you guessed it, rotis. Perfect for a quick, cheap and easy meal for those on a budget
A MAP OF THE BEST THINGS TO DO IN HIRIKETIYA
Visiting Hiriketiya and Dikwella? Use or download this map to your phone and follow our recommendations for the best things to do in Hiriketiya!
Click the star next to the title of the map to save it to your Google Maps account. To view on the road, open Google Maps, click the menu button, go to “Your Places,” click Maps, and you will see this exact map on your list.
HIRIKETIYA TRIP PLANNING GUIDE
WHERE IS HIRIKETIYA?
‘Hiri’ is a horseshoe-shaped, jungle-rimmed oasis on Sri Lanka's south coast, about 180 km from Colombo.
It’s a short drive from Dickwella (around 2mins) but is tucked away from the main highway in between Matara and Tangalle.
WHEN TO VISIT HIRIKETIYA
The absolute BEST time to visit Hiriketiya and Dickwella is between January - March when low rainfall and calmer seas provide the perfect weather to explore and learn to surf.
Due to the horseshoe shape of Hiriketiya beach, swimming and snorkelling are safe basically all year round.
We’ve been told to avoid visiting during early January when Sri Lankan holidays occur and the southern coast is teeming with local tourists.
WHERE TO STAY IN HIRIKETIYA
Hiriketiya’s accommodation scene has changed enormously since we first started visiting. What was once mostly surf camps and simple guesthouses now runs from beautifully designed boutique hotels to jungle villas, hostels and some seriously good family stays.
We’ve pulled everything together in our guide to the best places to stay in Hiriketiya, including the places we’d actually book, who they’re best for, and a few honest notes about noise — increasingly important in Hiri.
If you’re short on time, these are our quick picks:
MOND | BEST FOR DESIGN
Still one of our favourite places to stay in Sri Lanka. Tropical-modernist rooms tucked into the hillside, thoughtful sustainability, very good food and the sort of effortless design that plenty of newer Hiri hotels are still trying to imitate.
BOOK | Check current rates and availability for EarthShine, Moonlight, Halo and Crescent
BELDON | BEST BOUTIQUE STAY
One of the bay's newest openings, and probably the clearest sign of where Hiriketiya’s hotel scene is heading. Beautifully considered interiors, a more grown-up feel and a good option if you want Hiri without the backpacker energy.
SALT HOUSE | BEST ALL-ROUNDER
A Hiriketiya institution for good reason. Comfortable rooms, a pool, excellent brunch, complimentary daily yoga and free surfboards, all a few minutes from the beach. Particularly good if it’s your first time in Hiri and you want everything within easy reach.
THE YARD | BEST FOR SOME PEACE AND QUIET
Only a couple of hundred metres from the bay, but tucked far enough away from the noise to actually sleep. Six well-designed rooms, shared living spaces and a relaxed, homely feel make this one of our favourite smaller stays.
Travelling solo? We’d look at The Salty, which mixes private and shared rooms with yoga, surf, communal dinners and enough organised social stuff that meeting people happens fairly naturally.
For families, villas and longer stays, see our full Hiriketiya accommodation guide.
HOW TO GET TO HIRIKETIYA BEACH
TRAIN
Train travel in Sri Lanka is one of the best ways to travel, and the journey from Colombo to the southern coast is unmissable.
To get from Colombo to Hiriketiya, take the Beliatta train from Colombo Fort station (leaves daily - every 2hrs). You will need to disembark at Wewrukannala station, at which point you can take a tuk-tuk to Hiriketiya (10 mins).
Alternatively, you can take the train from Colombo Fort to Matara (daily, leaves every 2 hours) and then catch a bus to Hiriketiya.
BOOK | Search and book Sri Lanka train tickets here
BUS
Hiriketiya Bay is on the south coast of Sri Lanka, right next door to Dikwella Beach and east of the southern hub of Matara.
If you’re travelling to Hiriketiya and Dikwella from anywhere on the southern coast, we’d recommend taking the local bus to Dikwella (depending on where you’re coming from, you may need to change at Matara bus station), then either walking down to Hiriketiya Bay from there or taking a tuk-tuk the rest of the way.
| The bus from Matera will cost around 100 LKR per person
TUK TUK
Normally, we’re all about taking public transport but on this particularly hot travel day, with our too-heavy backpacks full of gear we were transporting back to Australia after years away, and a desire to get to the beach ASAP, we have to admit we were (pretty easily) persuaded by an absolutely lovely tuk-tuk driver to travel with him instead.
He’d recently rigged up a stereo system, got us fresh coconuts on the way and was just a lovely guy to chat with about all things Lanka, so we’re happy to have splurged.
| The tuk tuk from Wijaya beach/Unawatuna to Hiriketiya set us back about 3,000 LKR
RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL IN HIRIKETIYA
As we stated in thr intro, Hiriketiya has changed enormously since we first visited.
What was once a sleepy little surf bay is now one of Sri Lanka's busiest coastal destinations, packed with hotels, cafés, surf schools, beach bars and an increasingly international crowd.
That growth has brought jobs, money and some excellent businesses to the area. It's also put enormous pressure on a very small beach and the community around it.
Responsible travel here now means a lot more than refusing a plastic straw.
REMEMBER THAT HIRIKETIYA IS A SRI LANKAN VILLAGE
This should be obvious, but increasingly feels worth saying.
You're a guest here.
The beach might feel cosmopolitan, but walk five minutes towards Dickwella and you're back in a largely Buddhist Sri Lankan community, with homes, temples, schools and people going about their normal lives.
So be respectful. Cover up when you leave the beach. Keep the noise down when you're walking home at night. Dress respectfully around temples.
And don't arrive with the assumption that the social norms you follow at home automatically apply here.
Recent tensions in Hiriketiya around foreign-run businesses have made this particularly relevant. Whatever your nationality, religion or politics, Sri Lankan laws and local community norms still apply. Tourist visas don't give visitors the right to work or operate businesses, and tourism shouldn't create enclaves from which local people feel excluded.
MAKE SURE SOME OF YOUR MONEY STAYS LOCAL
Hiriketiya now has some seriously good international restaurants, boutique hotels and cafés, and we're not suggesting you avoid them - half this guide is telling you which ones we love.
But don't spend your entire trip inside the Hiri bubble.
Eat rice and curry at a Sri Lankan-run restaurant. Buy fruit in Dickwella. Use local tuk-tuk drivers. Book a local surf instructor. Grab a roti from the street corner.
Tourism works best when the people who actually live in a destination benefit from it.
There have already been complaints in Sri Lanka's busiest tourism areas about locals feeling excluded from businesses and even parts of their own beaches.
DON'T BE A DICK IN THE SURF
Hiriketiya's line-up is busy.
At peak times there can be dozens of surfers squeezed into a very small bay, with experienced surfers, surf schools and complete beginners all trying to catch the same waves. Unsurprisingly, collisions and near-misses happen.
If you're learning, take a lesson with a reputable local surf school and learn basic surf etiquette before paddling into the line-up.
Don't drop in. Don't ditch your board. Don't paddle straight into someone else's wave. And if the main break is clearly beyond your ability, there's no shame in staying on the beginner section.
USE LESS PLASTIC, BUT DON'T OVERTHINK IT
Plastic waste is still a problem, so the basics remain worthwhile:
Bring a refillable water bottle (we use the The Grayl GEOPRESS), refuse bags and straws when you don't need them, carry a tote, and avoid buying endless small plastic water bottles.
But you don't need an Amazon shopping list of twelve reusable travel products to be a responsible traveller.
Consume less. Reuse what you've already got. Dispose of rubbish properly.
And if you see plastic washed up on the beach, picking up a few pieces on the way out takes about thirty seconds.
DON'T WASTE WATER OR POWER
Sri Lanka regularly experiences periods of water stress, and tourism puts additional demand on local supplies.
Keep showers reasonable, don't ask for towels and sheets to be changed every day, and turn fans and lights off when you leave your room.
It's particularly worth thinking about when staying somewhere with a private pool or heavily air-conditioned villa: the fact that you're paying for those resources doesn't mean they're unlimited.
FINALLY, DON'T COME HERE LOOKING FOR A PRIVATE PARADISE
Hiriketiya isn't undiscovered anymore.
It's busy, increasingly expensive and very different from the place we first visited years ago. Complaining that locals, surfers, tuk-tuks or other travellers are ruining your tropical escape misses the point entirely.
Hiriketiya belongs first to the people who live here.
We're just lucky enough to visit.
HIRIKETIYA FAQ’S
Is Hiriketiya worth visiting?
Yes, but just don’t arrive expecting the sleepy little surf bay that it used to be. Hiriketiya is beautiful, fun and ridiculously easy to settle into, with good waves, excellent food and jungle spilling almost onto the sand.
It’s also busy, particularly from December to March, and the bay can get loud at night. Come for a few good days rather than solitude.
How many days do you need in Hiriketiya?
Three or four days is enough time to enjoy Hiri. That gives you time to surf, eat your way around the bay, disappear to a temple or the blowhole for an afternoon, and still have a day where you achieve almost nothing.
That said, Hiri has a habit of turning two-night bookings into week-long stays - we’re previous victims.
Is Hiriketiya good for beginner surfers?
Yes, but we wouldn’t call it the best place in Sri Lanka to learn - that would be Weligama. The sand-bottom beach break works well for beginners when the swell is small, particularly through the main south-coast season, but it gets very crowded due to the small size.
What's the best time to visit Hiriketiya?
December to March is the best weather, so it makes life more appealing here. That, and that’s when the surf is at its best. But it’s also when Hiriketiya is at its busiest and most expensive.
November and April are good shoulder months if you’re happy to trade slightly less predictable weather for fewer people, and increasingly, it’s been popular in the off-season months - rain is likely, the swells are poor, but it’s still paradise.
Avoid Christmas and New Year.
Can you swim at Hiriketiya Beach?
It does, and the horseshoe bay gives Hiriketiya some relatively protected water, especially to the southern corner.
The problem is less the ocean and more everyone carrying a surfboard. By mid-morning, the middle of the bay can get chaotic, so we prefer swimming early in the day or towards the quieter edges of the beach.
Head to Pehembiya Beach for quieter moments.
What is there to do in Hiriketiya besides surfing?
More than you’d think. Wewurukannala Temple is wonderfully strange, Mulkirigala is super unique, and Hummanaya Blowhole, Dondra and Blue Beach Island are all easy half-day trips.
Closer to home, there’s yoga, long swims, and an excellent food and cocktail scene. Smoke & Bitters and RAA are world-class.
Hiriketiya or Ahangama - which is better?
They’re both quite different now.
Hiriketiya is smaller, prettier and easier to experience in a few days. Everything is close, the beach is the centre of things, and you can mostly forget about transport once you arrive.
Ahangama is closer to Galle (and Colombo), much more spread out, with more beaches, more restaurants and more room to move rather than simply visit. We’d probably choose Hiri for a short stay, and Ahangama for a week or longer.
Our Ahangama guide covers that part of the coast in much more detail.
Is Hiriketiya good for digital nomads?
Yes, although we’re not huge advocates for the digital nomad lifestyle these days (due to negative impacts on local housing markets, the environment, and community relationships, as is evidenced in Hiri right now).
That said, there are plenty of cafés where opening a laptop doesn’t make you that person, plus dedicated or semi-dedicated workspaces around Hiri and neighbouring Dickwella.
MOND and Dots are useful options, but if work actually matters, choose accommodation with good WiFi and backup power. Sri Lankan power cuts and patchy connections still happen.
TRAVEL INSURANCE IN SRI LANKA
Honest take: if something goes wrong, a medical emergency, a missed ferry, a scooter accident on a coastal road, travel insurance is the difference between a stressful story and a catastrophic one.
After 10+ years of full-time travel, here's what we use:
WORLD NOMADS | Offers travel insurance for independent travellers and intrepid families. Their policies offer coverage for more than 150 activities as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more.
GET A QUOTE | World Nomads
READ THESE ESSENTIAL SRI LANKA POSTS
SRI LANKA TRAVEL TIPS | 31 incredible things to do in Sri Lanka, Our essential 3-week Sri Lanka Itinerary, Our 7-day Sri Lanka Itinerary, Everything you need to know before you visit Sri Lanka (39 essential tips!)
SRI LANKA CITY GUIDES | We’ve got in-depth guides to Colombo, Galle, Kandy, Jaffna, Hiriketiya, Mirissa Beach, Ahangama Beach
CULTURAL ATTRACTIONS | Our essential guides to both Sigiriya and Pidurangala, A guide to Polonnaruwa
TRANSPORT GUIDES | Our definitive guide to the Kandy to Ella train, how to get from Colombo to Kandy, how to get from Colombo to Galle
SRI LANKA ACCOMMODATION GUIDES | Where to stay in Hiriketiya, Where to stay in Ella, Where to stay in Galle
ELLA, SRI LANKA | Our complete guide to Ella, a guide to the Nine Arch Bridge, How to see Diyaluma Falls, Ella accommodation options for every budget (+ our recommendations)
PHOTOGRAPHY | Love our photography? View our detailed photography gear guide, as well as our top travel photography tips!
RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL | Learn our top responsible travel tips to help you travel more consciously around the globe
ECO-FRIENDLY PACKING ESSENTIALS | Don’t leave home without our favourite eco-friendly travel essentials
Visited Hiri? Let us know if we’ve missed any of the best things to do in Hiriketiya in the comments!
VISITING SRI LANKA? READ OUR ESSENTIAL GUIDES!
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