The Hiriketiya Beach Edit: Where To Eat, Stay & Play
Looking for the ultimate guide to Hiriketiya Beach, Sri Lanka? From the best things to do, where to stay, how to get there, and where to eat - we’ve got you covered with this in-depth post on our favourite destination in Sri Lanka!
After a long and sweaty three-hour tuk-tuk ride from Unawatuna, we arrived at Hiriketiya Beach on the southern coast of Sri Lanka.
It was love at first sight.
Palm-fringed golden sands, surfers carving up sweet left-handers, cool cafes dishing up an incredible brunch scene; this was a place so beautiful, so peaceful, and so perfect that we knew we'd definitely arrived in heaven.
Funnily enough, Hiriketiya Beach wasn’t a stop we were planning to make on our original Sri Lanka itinerary, but with a need for just a little more ocean therapy before heading north and the chance to hang out with new travel buddies, we decided to head to this jungle paradise on a whim - and boy are we glad we did.
What was once a sleepy hidden gem on Sri Lanka’s south coast with little more than a few wooden huts is fast becoming the ‘it’ place for digital nomads and their acai bowls, bronzed surfers riding waves all day long, and salty-haired wanderers chilling into a new level of zen.
There are surf shops that wouldn’t look out of place in any cool coastal town, beachside bars serving up cocktails from mason jars, and many co-working spaces have popped up in recent years.
As of our most recent visit, the Hiri of old is clinging on for dear life, fighting the dreaded perils of over-tourism in Canggu (and all of Bali, for that matter) in what seems like, at times, a losing battle. It’s scary, seeing a place you love so dearly, falling prey to the ‘progress’.
But despite all this progress, Hiriketiya still manages to be the kind of place where the thick jungle meets the sea and time becomes irrelevant - and we love it for it. Just don’t come expecting a quiet, zen-like bay - those days are now long gone.
If you’re planning a trip along Sri Lanka’s southern coastline (follow our three-week Sri Lanka itinerary here), you need to add a couple of days in Hiriketiya to your itinerary. From what to do, where to stay, and our favourite day trips, this is everything you need to know!
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HIRIKETIYA BEACH AT A GLANCE
WHERE | Southern Sri Lanka
WHAT TO SEE & DO | Learn to surf, daily yoga, visit Dondra Lighthouse, chill
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK | Smoke & Bitters, MOND, Duni’s Hoppers, Mahu Poke Bowls, RAA
HOW TO GET THERE | Train or bus from Colombo, tuk-tuk from surrounding areas
WHAT TO KNOW| Save water, bring a reusable water bottle
BOOK YOUR TRIP TO HIRIKETIYA BEACH
WHERE TO STAY | MOND, Jasper House, Le Cabanon & Dots Bay House · See our full guide to the best hotels in Hirketiya and Dickwella
TOURS & EXPERIENCES | Download the GetYourGuide app to book south-coast experiences - with 5% off your first app booking through our creator offer
GET TO HIRIKETIYA | Take the coastal train from Colombo or the Southern Coast for the experience, and use 12Go to compare trains, buses and private transfers
GET CONNECTED | Set up an Airalo eSIM before you fly and have data ready to go when you arrive in Sri Lanka
TRAVEL INSURANCE | Get a quote from World Nomads, with cover available for 150+ activities
SPEND SMARTER IN SRI LANKA | Get a Wise card to pay in Sri Lankan rupees and skip fees
TOP THINGS TO DO IN HIRIKETIYA BEACH
SURF, SURF, SURF AT HIRIKETIYA BEACH
Slowly becoming one of Sri Lanka's premier surf destinations, Hiriketiya Beach is the perfect place to learn to ride the waves or to take your surfing skills to the next level.
Located on a horseshoe-shaped bay with waves rolling in almost all year (10 months in fact), Hiriketiya Beach provides a challenge for all grades of surfers.
There are two breaks at Hiriketiya Beach, the reef break, located in the eastern corner of the bay, and the ever-popular beach break, which is more centrally located.
The reef break is definitely one for the more experienced surfers, with fast left hander that lasts for close to 100m, making it one of the better waves on the south coast.
The beach break is perfect for intermediates and beginners, and can roughly be split into two sections - further into the bay is where the waves tend to start, and where the intermediates line up. Further towards the beach is where you’ll find beginners and their teachers, attempting their first ride.
A word of warning though - as of our most recent visit (2024), it’s pretty hectic out there. Hiri’s popularity has skyrocketed, and as a result, it’s virtually impossible to score a wave without 100 others dropping in on you. The solution? Get up at the break of dawn and beat the rush.
The smaller swell during the peak season (Dec - Feb) is great for beginners, while the waves are at their best during Aug- Dec when intermediate/experienced surfers can take on the left-handers rolling perfectly into shore. Beginners’ can still surf during this time, but it’s best to try your luck on the sandier beach break.
Boards can be hired from the water’s edge and for 300 LKR per hour ($1.50!), it's an absolute bargain.
Also, please remember to use surfing etiquette and respect the locals and their waves.
In our experience, Weligama may be a better place to learn to surf (that’s where we learnt!), although for those with better skills surfing in Hiriketiya Bay is incredible.
THE DETAILS
Where | Hiriketiya Beach
Book | You can book surf lessons at Hiri Surf School
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SWIM & CHILL AT HIRIKETIYA BEACH
Not into surfing? Fortunately, Hiriketiya beach is a great place to chill and while the days away.
During our stay, we made a habit of heading down each afternoon to relax, swim, and watch the vibrant Sri Lankan sunsets light up the sky.
The palm-fringed beach isn't the widest nor the most golden-sanded in Sri Lanka, but the setting is magical and the water clear.
Although surfers fill the bay come midday, there's always enough room to swim and there are even turtles that swim in the shallows if you're lucky enough to spot one!
If you're after a cheap eat, Roti Hut serves cheap roti and coconuts to the left of the beach - although if you’re in a rush, be warned: we did have to wait about an hour for ours!
Hiriketiya isn’t the only beach in the area though. Dickwella, a short 15-minute walk away, is far more expansive, allowing for a more relaxed beachside experience - think Mirissa Beach without the crowds (see more below).
Alternatively, if you looking to explore beaches around the southern coast, we recommend the following:
Talalla Beach | About 30 mins drive west from Hiri, an exquisite white-sand cove flanked by coconut trees
Goyambokka | A hidden beach off the main tourist road, about 30 mins drive east of Hiri, Goyambokka is a dream, flanked by palms and chilled eateries
Silent Beach | Located just before Goyambokka, Silent beach is just that - silent. A long stretch of golden sand all to yourself. Just be careful during the offseason as the swell can get rough
AFTERNOONS & SUNSETS AT DICKWELLA BEACH (PEHEMBIYA BEACH)
Hiriketiya Beach is rather small and due to its size, can get very busy at times, especially during the morning surf lesson rush, or in the later afternoon chill time.
Nearby Dickwella Beach is far larger, with a long stretch of white sand that seems to go on for miles. And dare we say, it’s now our favoured beach in the area, offering a diverse mix of activities, beach bars, and large swathes of sand. And less crowds.
The calmer eastern end, known as Pehembiya Beach (adjacent to Smoke & Bitters), has become a popular rival to Hiriketiya’s bustling sands, with rustic beach bars popping up along its palm-lined fringes.
The affordable beach beds, ample King Coconuts, and golden sand make it a wonderful place to spend the day, and it’s also the perfect place to settle in for the afternoon before a famous Sri Lankan sunset commences.
Machan Place is the pick of the bunch, offering delicious smoothies & drinks, Sri Lankan street food, and affordable sun beds.
Due to its west-facing position, you’ll watch the sky turn all hues of the rainbow before setting into the Indian Ocean, and it’s a mesmerising experience to enjoy.
Finish the day at Smoke & Bitters for the most incredible gastro-experience (see below).
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BEACH CLUB VIBES AT LA PLAYA
On our most recent trip to Hiriketiya, we were surprised (read: shocked) to see the towering La Playa Hiriketiya set right on the beach - Hiri had previously felt like it was avoiding the perils of mass tourism, but seeing La Playa felt like the dawn of the development era for this little coastal paradise.
The building itself is stylish and blends with the surroundings, while the beach club fuses contemporary chic and tropical aesthetics, reminiscent of some of Bali’s best beach clubs. The music is great, the food delicious, and the cocktails wonderful, but it just feels a little out of place when compared to the surrounding offerings.
Now, don’t let us dissuade you from visiting and enjoying yourself in the sun-drenched lap pool while sipping cocktails, for La Playa is perfect for those seeking a more upmarket, boho-vibe.
Maybe we’re getting old and sentimental, but we hold the old Hiri close to our hearts, and any major development to the beachside is hard to handle.
THE DETAILS
Where | La Playa, Hiriketiya Beach
Cost | $$
BOOK | You can also stay right on the beachfront at La Playa, which you can book here
BOUTIQUES & COLLECTIVES | THE BEST SHOPPING IN HIRI
Sri Lanka might not be as renowned for shopping, design and textiles as Vietnam or Thailand, but across its bohemian hotspots, with their mix of international and local creatives, there’s a growing scene of designers producing exceptional goods.
Hiriketiya is one such place, home to a burgeoning scene of local and international designers producing everything from swimwear to art.
The excellent Le Ketiya Boutique, owned by South African native Gabby, specialises in luxury swimwear, tropical clothing, surf accessories and more, and is the perfect place to grab stylish bikinis, sarongs or flowing linen.
Nearby, The Village Collective is a Sri Lankan artisan store showcasing locally-produced art, homewares and lifestyle brands. Think wall art, candles, cosmetics and sustainably sourced tea and coffee. We grabbed a Hiriketiya print for our wall, just to remind us of our favourite place in the world.
The Verse Collective has a small boutique on site, which has a range of surf products in case you lose/forget yours at home - it’s expensive but came in handy when Mark lost his boardies in HIkkaduwa.
MARVEL AT BLUE BEACH, NILWELLA
Tucked away in nearby Nilwella lies Blue Beach, a bright-white sandbar that connects the mainland with a ubiquitous palm-filled rocky Sri Lankan outcrop. It’s a photographer’s heaven, especially from above (via drone), with the unique aspects providing some super cool photo opportunities.
On a calm day, the beach is a wonderful place to relax and enjoy a swim away from the crowds of Hiriketiya Beach - just don’t forget to bring some food and water, as the beach has little in the way of amenities.
For divers and snorkellers, the newly created Nilwella Underwater Gallery is a super-cool place to explore the unique beauty of Sri Lanka’s aquatic life. The gallery features a myriad of sculptures, structures and artificial reefs, designed to increase breeding grounds for local fish species and create new coral reefs that encourage tourism.
To go diving or snorkelling, enquire about your accommodation in Hiriketiya.
If you’re into camping, the private island houses a super cool campground - just make sure you get permission (and pay a fee) before camping there.
THE DETAILS
Where | Blue Beach, Nilwella
How to get there | Get to Nilwella fishing village via tuk-tuk, around 300 LKR each way
GET YOUR DAILY DOSE OF YOGA AT SALT HOUSE
For those who love a yoga session or two on holiday (us!), Salt House in Hiriketiya is the perfect place.
With an open elevated Shala set amongst the jungles of Hiriketiya, a yoga session at Salt House is truly relaxing. Unless you do a vinyasa flow session, in which case it'll be truly exhausting.
Salt House also hosts yoga and surf retreats, so if you're looking to completely zen out for a week in Hiri you’d do well to join one of these.
They also have some of the most beautiful designed accommodation in Hiriketiya, check out prices and availability on Booking.com.
THE DETAILS
Where | Yoga at Salt House
Cost | Free for guests
BOOK | Salt House, Hiriketiya
ENJOY AN AYURVEDIC MASSAGE
If it’s not already abundantly clear, Hiriketiya is a place for relaxation. Here, a morning surf takes priority over emails, midday yoga is a habit, and an afternoon massage is essential.
So, if you’re visiting Hiri, make sure you book yourself in for an ayurvedic massage.
In Sri Lanka, massages mostly involve Ayurveda, the holistic science that looks at physical, emotional, and spiritual balance. An ayurvedic massage focuses on relaxation, stress relief and promotes the release of emotional blockages, through the use of essential oils and herbs. In short, it’s the perfect antidote to the energy expended while surfing, and the perfect accompaniment to yoga.
In Hiriketiya, there is a range of Ayurveda massage options, including Tonic Spa, located just north of the main beach. They offer a range of massage treatments, from deep tissue to relaxation, body/face scrubs and herbal baths (treatments start from 3,500LKR).
Another option is to book through your accommodation, or through the Salt House, or Jasper House.
THE DETAILS
Where | Tonic Spa Hiriketiya
Cost | Massages start from 3,500LKR
Book | Book ahead online, or through Instagram
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VISIT THE SOUTHERNMOST POINT OF SRI LANKA, DONDRA LIGHTHOUSE
Although Hiri is amazing and you'll never want to leave, we do suggest you set aside a day to make your way to the southernmost tip of Sri Lanka, home of the beautiful Dondra Lighthouse.
Completed in 1890, Dondra lighthouse is Sri Lanka's tallest, and in our opinion, most impressive (although the Galle Fort lighthouse pushes it hard!). The stunning coastal setting, beautiful palms, and lack of tourists means it'll be worth the effort to visit - trust us.
Entry is free and it's easy to get to - hire a tuk tuk to take you directly there, or catch the local bus from Dikwella to Dondra, and walk to the lighthouse from the town centre.
THE DETAILS
Where | Dondra Lighthouse Road, Dondra
Cost | Free entry
Opening hours | 09:00 am - 19:00 pm every day
How to get to Dondra Lighthouse | Local bus is LKR 50 one way from Dickwella
Tuk tuk LKR 500-800 depending on passengers
A UNIQUE CULTURAL FIX AT WEWRUKANNALA VIHARAYA BUDDHIST TEMPLE
Looking to explore something more than the beaches and breaks of Hiriketiya, our kind Airbnb hosts suggested we spend time at Wewrukannala Viharaya Buddhist temple, 1.5kms outside of Dikwella; "it's very unique, you must visit" they reiterated.
Unique is probably an understatement.
Wewrukannala Viharaya draws visitors from all over the country to see the giant Buddha statue, which at 50m in height, is the tallest in Sri Lanka. However, the most unique (and frankly terrifying) part of the temple complex is the Buddhist Hall of Horrors, a long corridor illustrated with ghastly depictions of Buddhist hell.
With each step through the tunnel, we gasped with horror (and a little laughter) as each depiction became more and more shocking.
Highlights, if you can call them that, include sinners being disembowelled, viciously (and graphically) castrated, sawn in half, stabbed with spears, and hacked to pieces.
It takes around an hour to explore the complex - just don't get locked in the hall of horrors, whatever you do.
THE DETAILS
Where | Wewrukannala Viharaya Buddhist temple
Cost | LKR 100 entry pp. A guided tour will cost LKR 50 - 100 per person
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TRADITIONAL CULTURAL EXPERIENCES AT NILWELLA FISHING VILLAGE
While in Hiriketiya we wanted to get an insight into the traditional way of life of Sri Lanka's coastal fisherman, so a local recommended we check out Nilwella fishing village, just north of Hiri.
Arriving at 7 am, we watched as wily fisherman slowly returned to the harbour in traditional outriggers, their arrival triggering a frenzied auction amongst wholesalers looking to snap up the morning's catch.
It was all over in about 30 minutes, and while it was definitely an insightful experience, it shouldn't be top of your list of things to do in Hiriketiya unless you're seeking authentic, cultural experiences.
Also - be aware that there are many packs of stray dogs around this area, and unlike the rest of Sri Lanka’s strays, these ones were a wee bit aggressive.
THE DETAILS
Where | Nilwella fishing village
How to get there | Get to Nilwella fishing village via tuk-tuk, around 300r each way
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK IN HIRIKETIYA
SMOKE & BITTERS
Sri Lanka is home to some of the best sunsets you could ever wish to see. And now Sri Lanka is home to a cocktail bar rated in the top 100 in Asia (read more here); Smoke & Bitters, located just outside of Hiri, at Pehembiya Beach.
Merge the best sunsets with the best cocktails (and food), and add a palm-filled space and excellent staff, and you have probably the best night out in Sri Lanka.
And we should know; we’ve now spent an evening here on two separate trips to Hirikietiya, and both times we’ve walked away agreeing that it was, in fact, the best meal we’ve ever had (Hyperbole? Maybe. Delicious? Yes.).
Smoke & Bitters opened in early 2020 before the pandemic took hold and ceased international travel for the better part of two years. Thankfully, the team at Smoke & Bitters worked hard to keep the business afloat, honing their cocktail varieties and locally sourced ingredients (bitters, syrups, liqueurs and spirit infusions are made in-house!), to create the perfect cocktail menu.
A must-have cocktail is a signature Mai Chai, which uses chai rum, chai tea, orgeat, chai syrup and triple sec to create the ultimate nod to Sri Lanka. Other recommended cocktails include the Peniceylon, and, well, anything really!
The food is scarily good, too - a mix of Sri Lankan, Asian and BBQ infusions to create a range of tasty bar food, as well as fine dining plates. Make sure you get the kurumba calamari, made from tempura coconut flesh and topped with salsa. Also, the kalu pol seafood curry is to die for.
One word of warning - it gets super busy here (understandably!), so book in advance.
THE DETAILS
Where | Smoke & Bitters
Cost | Cocktails from 1,200 LKR, Large plates from 1,400 LKR, Small plates from 600 LKR
DUNI’S HOPPERS
On our first visit to Hikiketiya in 2019, we stayed with a lovely family and their son, Duni, just outside of town. It was a wonderful little stay and remained seared in our memories over the next few COVID-affected years.
So you can imagine our shock when, in 2024, we stumbled across Duni’s Hoppers and put two and two together. We quickly messaged him and met up for a chat over hoppers & coffee, and it was one of those wonderful full-circle moments that travel often produces.
Anyway, about the food… if you’re not sure what hoppers are, they’re essentially bowl-shaped pancakes made from fermented rice flour and coconut. They’re delicious, and the perfect way to start the day (or for lunch). We’re massive fans of hoppers, and Duni’s delivers the best in town.
You can’t go past the classic hoppers, using Subha’s dahl recipe (Duni’s mother). It’s rich, hearty, and hits the spot every time. The pink hopper, using beetroot, is another winner.
In addition to hoppers, Duni’s serves a range of colourful, vegan smoothie bowls (go for the cacao), reminiscent of those in Canggu. Oh, and the coffee is excellent.
THE DETAILS
Where | Duni’s Hoppers (note: do not visit Arlo’s Hoppers, who completely ripped off Duni’s business and business model)
Cost | Hoppers start from LKR 910, smoothie bowls from LKR 1,930, and coffee from LKR 910
LAZY DAYS AT MOND
MOND has been one of our favourite places to eat in Hiriketiya for years, long before we actually stayed here.
The menu is contemporary, seasonal and built around ingredients sourced from nearby growers and producers.
Breakfast is probably what MOND is best known for: excellent coffee, the Mond Hash with rösti, oyster mushrooms, poached eggs and hollandaise (highly recommend), and the Peni Pol Pancake with buffalo curd, mango, passionfruit and lemongrass treacle.
Lunch is lighter and easygoing, while afternoons are good for matcha, fresh juices and house-made coolers - the Rosewater, Lime & Mint is our pick.
Dinner is worth making time for too. The rooftop shifts to sharing plates and cocktails, with a strong plant-based menu alongside seafood and meat. We’d order the focaccia with lunu miris coconut butter, Moju Dosa, and either the Mahi Mahi aguachile or Malu Mala, then add a Mond Gimlet.
It’s one of those rare places that works just as well for breakfast after a surf as it does for a proper dinner and drinks later in the day.
THE DETAILS
Where | MOND Hiriketiya
What it costs | Coffee LKR 800–1,200, breakfast LKR 2,300–2,800, dinner plates LKR 1,200–2,900 and cocktails LKR 2,700–3,600
STAY | MOND is also the best place to stay in Hiri… Book here: EarthShine, Moonlight, Halo, and Crescent
SUNSET DRINKS AND CHILLED VIBES AT DOTS, HIRIKETIYA
Sri Lanka isn't really a 'rave till sunrise' type of destination, but beach bars are pretty common across the island and one of our faves is Dots Bay House on Hiriketiya beach.
Set right on the beach, Dots is the most popular place to chill out and enjoy a sundowner or two, chow down on great Western or Sri Lankan food, or simply relax and chat with fellow travellers.
Happy hour occurs from 6-7:30 pm (only applies to cocktails), and we definitely recommend the gin basil smash.
There's also a cool surf store if you're after some threads while in Sri Lanka.
A word of warning - prices can be a little inflated here, so it might be a 'visit once during your stay' kinda place for those on a budget.
THE DETAILS
Where | Dots Bay House, Hiriketiya
BOOK | DotsBayHouse is also a guesthouse. Check prices and availability on here
ENJOY A DREAMY BRUNCH AT LA LUNA
A place so good, we came back three times, La Luna is one the best western-style brunches we've had in Sri Lanka.
The coffee is exceptional, but where La Luna really blew us away is their delicious breakfast options, with ingredients that were so fresh and so tasty we were in foody heaven.
If those options don't take your fancy, the smashed avo and assorted fruit plate are other options worthy of your time.
In the evening, there are artisanal pizzas on offer.
Located opposite Hiriketiya Beach in a beautiful, green setting, La Luna brings the best in design and minimalism to Hiri.
They also have a guesthouse on-site, so if you’re looking for some cool digs across the street from the beach, this is your place.
THE DETAILS
Where | La Luna, Hiriketiya
Cost | Coffees: 400r - 550r, brunch from 850r - 1200r
Opening hours | Daily, 8.30 am - 9 pm
Note | The menu caters for that craving for Western-style food, so don't expect too much in the way of local cuisine
STAY | Book your stay at The Bay Guesthouse here
GARLIC CAFE
We’d long read that Garlic Cafe served the best local food in Hiriketiya. And on our most recent visit, we were able to enjoy it for the first time.
And the reviews were right.
Offering traditional cuisine and affordable prices, Garlic Cafe is excellent. The kottu roti is one of the best we’ve enjoyed in the country, and the rice & curry buffet is tasty.
A visit here is worthwhile, especially for those on a budget or for those sick of overpriced Western food.
THE DETAILS
Where | Garlic Cafe
Cost | Kottu from LKR 1,000, Rice & Curry from LKR 1,000
RICE & CURRY AT JAYANTHA RESTAURANT
We’re happy to admit that Sri Lankan cuisine is among our all-time favourites. The taste, texture, and aroma of the Sri Lankan kitchen are impossible to beat, especially when done well.
After too much Western-style food, we ventured into Dickwella and found the roadside buffet of Jayantha, serving up a delicious array of authentic rice & curry.
After a massive serving of kottu, and vegetarian curries, we left satisfied - so much so, we returned the next day. The buffet varies from day to day, but follows the same traditional menu of this region - and the prices are super affordable for those on a budget.
THE DETAILS
Where | Jayantha, Dickwella town
OTHER RESTAURANTS TO VISIT IN HIRIKETIYA
Malu Poke | The best poke bowls in Sri Lanka, serving both seafood and veggie options. Also serves smoothie bowls, perfect for the post-surf breakfast. Bowls start from 1,200 LKR
Roti Hut | Located right on Hiri beach, Roti Hut serves up, you guessed it, rotis. Perfect for a quick, cheap and easy meal for those on a budget
A MAP OF THE BEST THINGS TO DO IN HIRIKETIYA
Visiting Hiriketiya and Dikwella? Use or download this map to your phone and follow our recommendations for the best things to do in Hiriketiya!
Click the star next to the title of the map to save it to your Google Maps account. To view on the road, open Google Maps, click the menu button, go to “Your Places,” click Maps, and you will see this exact map on your list.
HIRIKETIYA TRIP PLANNING GUIDE
WHERE IS HIRIKETIYA?
‘Hiri’ is a horseshoe-bay, jungle-rimmed oasis located on the south coast of Sri Lanka, around 180 km from Colombo.
It’s a short drive from Dikwella (around 2mins) but is tucked away from the main highway in between Matara and Tangalle.
WHEN TO VISIT HIRIKETIYA
The absolute BEST time to visit Hiriketiya and Dikwella is between January - March when low rainfall and calmer seas provide the perfect weather to explore and learn to surf.
Due to the horseshoe shape of Hiriketiya beach, swimming and snorkelling are safe basically all year round.
We’ve been told to avoid visiting during early January when Sri Lankan holidays occur and the southern coast is teeming with local tourists.
WHERE TO STAY IN HIRIKETIYA
Across our many visits to Hiriketiya, we’ve found accommodation in the area can be a bit hit-and-miss. However, with new openings post-Covid catering to all budgets, accommodation options are plentiful.
To help you choose the right place, we’ve curated the best places to stay in Hiriketiya guide.
If you’re short on time, below are our three favourite hotels:
MOND | One of our favourite stays on the Island. Tropical modernist, sustainable, excellent food, and dripping in cool.
BOOK | Check current rates and availability for each room: EarthShine, Moonlight, Halo, and Crescent
JASPER HOUSE | 12 airy rooms feature beautiful rooms with local furniture, antique decor, and a few steps to the surf.
BOOK | Prices and availability here
SALT HOUSE | 4* laid-back hotel/yoga studio/surf camp with beautiful, minimalistic rooms.
BOOK | Prices and availability here
DOTS BAY HOUSE | More of a ‘hostel’ vibe, but cool and close to Hiriketiya Beach.
BOOK | Prices and availability here
Alternatively, search for all hotel options for Hiriketiya and Dikwella on booking.com here
HOW TO GET TO HIRIKETIYA BEACH
TRAIN
Train travel in Sri Lanka is one of the best ways to travel, and the journey from Colombo to the southern coast is unmissable.
To get from Colombo to Hiriketiya, take the Beliatta train from Colombo Fort station (leaves daily - every 2hrs). You will need to disembark at Wewrukannala station, at which point you can take a tuk-tuk to Hiriketiya (10 mins).
Alternatively, you can take the train from Colombo Fort to Matara (daily, leaves every 2 hours) and then catch a bus to Hiriketiya.
BOOK | Search and book Sri Lanka train tickets here
BUS
Hiriketiya Bay is on the south coast of Sri Lanka, right next door to Dikwella Beach and east of the southern hub of Matara.
If you’re travelling to Hiriketiya and Dikwella from anywhere on the southern coast, we’d recommend taking the local bus to Dikwella (depending on where you’re coming from, you may need to change at Matara bus station), then either walking down to Hiriketiya Bay from there or taking a tuk-tuk the rest of the way.
| The bus from Matera will cost around 100 LKR per person
TUK TUK
Normally, we’re all about taking public transport but on this particularly hot travel day, with our too-heavy backpacks full of gear we were transporting back to Australia after years away, and a desire to get to the beach ASAP, we have to admit we were (pretty easily) persuaded by an absolutely lovely tuk-tuk driver to travel with him instead.
He’d recently rigged up a stereo system, got us fresh coconuts on the way and was just a lovely guy to chat with about all things Lanka, so we’re happy to have splurged.
| The tuk tuk from Wijaya beach/Unawatuna to Hiriketiya set us back about 3,000 LKR
RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL IN HIRIKETIYA
As we stated in thr intro, Hiriketiya has changed enormously since we first visited.
What was once a sleepy little surf bay is now one of Sri Lanka's busiest coastal destinations, packed with hotels, cafés, surf schools, beach bars and an increasingly international crowd.
That growth has brought jobs, money and some excellent businesses to the area. It's also put enormous pressure on a very small beach and the community around it.
Responsible travel here now means a lot more than refusing a plastic straw.
REMEMBER THAT HIRIKETIYA IS A SRI LANKAN VILLAGE
This should be obvious, but increasingly feels worth saying.
You're a guest here.
The beach might feel cosmopolitan, but walk five minutes towards Dickwella and you're back in a largely Buddhist Sri Lankan community, with homes, temples, schools and people going about their normal lives.
So be respectful. Cover up when you leave the beach. Keep the noise down when you're walking home at night. Dress respectfully around temples.
And don't arrive with the assumption that the social norms you follow at home automatically apply here.
Recent tensions in Hiriketiya around foreign-run businesses have made this particularly relevant. Whatever your nationality, religion or politics, Sri Lankan laws and local community norms still apply. Tourist visas don't give visitors the right to work or operate businesses, and tourism shouldn't create enclaves from which local people feel excluded.
MAKE SURE SOME OF YOUR MONEY STAYS LOCAL
Hiriketiya now has some seriously good international restaurants, boutique hotels and cafés, and we're not suggesting you avoid them - half this guide is telling you which ones we love.
But don't spend your entire trip inside the Hiri bubble.
Eat rice and curry at a Sri Lankan-run restaurant. Buy fruit in Dickwella. Use local tuk-tuk drivers. Book a local surf instructor. Grab a roti from the street corner.
Tourism works best when the people who actually live in a destination benefit from it.
There have already been complaints in Sri Lanka's busiest tourism areas about locals feeling excluded from businesses and even parts of their own beaches.
DON'T BE A DICK IN THE SURF
Hiriketiya's line-up is busy.
At peak times there can be dozens of surfers squeezed into a very small bay, with experienced surfers, surf schools and complete beginners all trying to catch the same waves. Unsurprisingly, collisions and near-misses happen.
If you're learning, take a lesson with a reputable local surf school and learn basic surf etiquette before paddling into the line-up.
Don't drop in. Don't ditch your board. Don't paddle straight into someone else's wave. And if the main break is clearly beyond your ability, there's no shame in staying on the beginner section.
USE LESS PLASTIC, BUT DON'T OVERTHINK IT
Plastic waste is still a problem, so the basics remain worthwhile:
Bring a refillable water bottle (we use the The Grayl GEOPRESS), refuse bags and straws when you don't need them, carry a tote, and avoid buying endless small plastic water bottles.
But you don't need an Amazon shopping list of twelve reusable travel products to be a responsible traveller.
Consume less. Reuse what you've already got. Dispose of rubbish properly.
And if you see plastic washed up on the beach, picking up a few pieces on the way out takes about thirty seconds.
DON'T WASTE WATER OR POWER
Sri Lanka regularly experiences periods of water stress, and tourism puts additional demand on local supplies.
Keep showers reasonable, don't ask for towels and sheets to be changed every day, and turn fans and lights off when you leave your room.
It's particularly worth thinking about when staying somewhere with a private pool or heavily air-conditioned villa: the fact that you're paying for those resources doesn't mean they're unlimited.
FINALLY, DON'T COME HERE LOOKING FOR A PRIVATE PARADISE
Hiriketiya isn't undiscovered anymore.
It's busy, increasingly expensive and very different from the place we first visited years ago. Complaining that locals, surfers, tuk-tuks or other travellers are ruining your tropical escape misses the point entirely.
Hiriketiya belongs first to the people who live here.
We're just lucky enough to visit.
TRAVEL INSURANCE IN SRI LANKA
Honest take: if something goes wrong, a medical emergency, a missed ferry, a scooter accident on a coastal road, travel insurance is the difference between a stressful story and a catastrophic one.
After 10+ years of full-time travel, here's what we use:
WORLD NOMADS | Offers travel insurance for independent travellers and intrepid families. Their policies offer coverage for more than 150 activities as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more.
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READ THESE ESSENTIAL SRI LANKA POSTS
SRI LANKA TRAVEL TIPS | 31 incredible things to do in Sri Lanka, Our essential 3-week Sri Lanka Itinerary, Our 7-day Sri Lanka Itinerary, Everything you need to know before you visit Sri Lanka (39 essential tips!)
SRI LANKA CITY GUIDES | We’ve got in-depth guides to Colombo, Galle, Kandy, Jaffna, Hiriketiya, Mirissa Beach, Ahangama Beach
CULTURAL ATTRACTIONS | Our essential guides to both Sigiriya and Pidurangala, A guide to Polonnaruwa
TRANSPORT GUIDES | Our definitive guide to the Kandy to Ella train, how to get from Colombo to Kandy, how to get from Colombo to Galle
SRI LANKA ACCOMMODATION GUIDES | Where to stay in Hiriketiya, Where to stay in Ella, Where to stay in Galle
ELLA, SRI LANKA | Our complete guide to Ella, a guide to the Nine Arch Bridge, How to see Diyaluma Falls, Ella accommodation options for every budget (+ our recommendations)
PHOTOGRAPHY | Love our photography? View our detailed photography gear guide, as well as our top travel photography tips!
RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL | Learn our top responsible travel tips to help you travel more consciously around the globe
ECO-FRIENDLY PACKING ESSENTIALS | Don’t leave home without our favourite eco-friendly travel essentials
Visited Hiri? Let us know if we’ve missed any of the best things to do in Hiriketiya in the comments!
VISITING SRI LANKA? READ OUR ESSENTIAL GUIDES!
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That, and you're officially a legend.
MOND in Hiriketiya is one of Sri Lanka’s original design hotels; architecturally significant, beautifully considered, and still one of our favourite stays on the south coast. This is our full review, including the rooms, food, location, and what to know before you book.