This is everything worth doing in Santander, Spain
Santander is the Spanish city most people haven't visited yet, but it’s so underrated. Three days here covers everything from Renzo Piano's extraordinary Centro Botín and the coastal walk to La Maruca, to exceptional tapas in Plaza de Cañadío and some of the finest city beaches on the continent. Here's everything worth doing, updated for 2026.
Ahead of the boardwalk I'm wandering on lies the delightfully green Magdalena Peninsula. To my right, the golden sands of Playa el Puntal.
In the distance, the vertiginous peaks of the Cordillera Cantábrica are surrounded by low-lying cloud, while Centro Botín, Renzo Piano's extraordinary contribution to the Santander skyline, sparkles in the morning sun.
"This is a place I could actually live," I muse, as a local cycles past leisurely, no doubt enjoying another glorious morning in this part of the world.
It's not often that I'm drawn to a city so quickly, especially one that arrives with so little fanfare. I knew almost nothing about Santander before my arrival. Three days later, I was looking up apartment prices.
Santander has the things we always look for in a city - strong local culture, serious natural beauty, a food scene built around exceptional fresh seafood and a coastline that would be celebrated if it were anywhere more famous.
It has all of this, without the crowds or the prices that come with being on the standard tourist circuit.
This is our guide to the best things to do, see and eat in Santander - everything we'd recommend based on that visit, and everything you need to make the most of your time here.
SANTANDER AT A GLANCE
DON'T MISS | Centro Botín, the coastal walk to La Maruca, El Sardinero Beach, Mercado de la Esperanza, tapas in Plaza de Cañadío, ice cream from Regma
BEST FOR | Those who've done Spain's obvious cities and want something genuinely different
WHEN TO VISIT | June and September are the sweet spots. July and August are busy but full of life.
HOW LONG | Three days is ideal. Two is manageable. One is enough to fall in love with the place.
GETTING AROUND | The city is very walkable. Local buses cover the beaches and suburbs
WHERE TO STAY | Eurostars Hotel Real (luxury) · Soho Boutique Palacio de Pombo (boutique) · Silken Coliseum (mid-range)
TOP TOURS | Saboreando Santander food tour · Cathedral and Centro Botín private tour · Western Cantabria villages day trip
PLAN YOUR TRIP TO SANTANDER
WHY VISIT SANTANDER?
If you've already ticked off Spain's greatest hits - Barcelona's Gothic Quarter, Madrid's squares, a late night in Seville, paella in Valencia, Santander is where to go next.
It doesn't have the grand historical monuments or the international fame of those cities, and that's precisely the point. Santander is popular with Spanish locals, which is always the most reliable endorsement a city can get.
It has excellent urban beaches, a coastline that would be celebrated if it were anywhere more famous, a food scene built on exceptional fresh seafood and a pace of life that feels genuinely unhurried.
It's also well-connected from the UK and across Europe. Brittany Ferries runs direct from Portsmouth and Plymouth, and Ryanair and easyJet both serve Santander Airport.
There's very little reason not to go.
HOW MANY DAYS DO YOU NEED IN SANTANDER?
Three days feels like enough, especially if it’s a weekend or bank holiday weekend.
It's enough time to do the city properly - Centro Botín, the coastal walk to La Maruca, a full day at El Sardinero, an evening in Plaza de Cañadío, the market and a day trip to either the Cantabrian villages or Bilbao - without feeling rushed.
Two days is workable if Santander is a stop on a broader itinerary. Prioritise the coastal walk, the tapas scene and at least one beach day. You'll leave wanting more, which is arguably the best outcome.
One day is enough to fall in love with the place, which is exactly how this guide came to exist.
For a complete two-day itinerary, our 48-hour Santander guide covers everything in detail.
WHERE TO STAY IN SANTANDER
Santander is considerably more affordable than Spain's major cities, which means you can spend more on food, and on this coastline, that's the right call.
We recommend staying downtown, within walking distance of the waterfront and the old town.
LUXURY | Eurostars Hotel Real - the finest hotel in Santander, a palace-style property with sweeping views over the bay and El Sardinero Beach. Elegant rooms, a cocktail terrace and a gym. The pick for a genuine splurge.
BEST BOUTIQUE | Soho Boutique Palacio de Pombo - 64 rooms in a beautifully restored building in the heart of the city, close to beaches and cultural attractions. Contemporary design, breakfast buffet with gluten-free options and a genuinely warm welcome.
MID-RANGE | Silken Coliseum - where we stayed. Four-star, downtown, large and comfortable rooms and an excellent breakfast. Caters mostly to business travellers, which means it's well-run and efficient.
NEAR THE BEACH | Gran Hotel Sardinero - a historic hotel near El Sardinero Beach with a modern interior and a maritime feel. The Gran Casino and Magdalena Palace are both nearby.
THE BEST THINGS TO DO IN SANTANDER
#1 VISIT SANTANDER’S ARCHITECTURAL MASTERPIECE, CENTRO BOTIN
When Centro Botín opened in 2017, Santanderinos were sceptical.
The city had watched what happened in Bilbao when the Guggenheim arrived; the transformation was extraordinary, but the debate about what it changed was equally so.
Santander's waterfront institution, designed by Renzo Piano, felt like a similar gamble.
It paid off.
The building alone is worth the visit. Two structures connected by bridges, covered in over 300,000 pearlescent discs that change colour with the light, cantilevered over the bay of Santander and integrated with the historic Pereda Gardens.
The interior is spacious and well-lit, offering views across the bay from every angle, along with a complimentary rooftop viewing platform that provides some of the best vistas in the city.
The exhibitions change seasonally and range from contemporary installation art to classical works and musical performances. During our visit, Carsten Höller's installation Y took visitors on a deliberately disorientating journey through individual choices - one of the more thrilling gallery experiences we've had anywhere.
Current exhibitions run until September 2026, with new programming from October. Check the full schedule here before you go.
When you're done, El Muelle café on the ground floor does good coffee and pastries with views over the gardens.
THE DETAILS
Where | Centro Botín, Jardines de Pereda, Santander
Hours | June to September: daily 10 am to 9 pm (Mondays closed except July and August). October to May: Tuesday to Friday 10am to 2pm and 4pm to 8 pm, weekends and bank holidays 10 am to 8 pm, Mondays closed.
Tickets | Book online here - Centro Botín also offers their own guided tours starting from €7 per person, bookable at least 48 hours in advance
Tip | The rooftop viewing platform is free - worth going up even if you skip the exhibition
BOOK | For the historical context on both the building and the exhibitions, this private guided tour of Santander's Cathedral and Centro Botín covers both in one session with an official English-speaking guide, including the permanent collection featuring Sorolla, Matisse and Juan Gris
#2 EAT TAPAS & PINTXOS UNTIL YOU CAN’T
The Cantabrians take food seriously, and Santander's location on the North Atlantic coast means the seafood in particular is exceptional.
The epicentre of the culinary scene is Plaza de Cañadío, a centrally located square that fills with locals every evening, surrounded by pintxos bars operating late into the night.
The atmosphere is exactly what you'd hope a Spanish food square would be: noisy, warm and entirely unhurried.
Local specialities worth knowing about: rabas (fried squid), anchoas (anchovies that bear no resemblance to the tinned variety), cocido montañés (a hearty Cantabrian bean stew) and the full range of pintxos on bread.
Mark doesn't eat seafood and still ate exceptionally well - patatas bravas, croquetas, tortilla de patatas and mushrooms in garlic oil are all outstanding here.
Two spots worth seeking out specifically: La Tuta on Calle del Medio for some of the best and cheapest croquetas in the city, and Bodega del Riojano, a rustic dining room lined with wine barrels painted by contemporary artists in exchange for food, Picasso among them. The sharing platters here are excellent.
If you'd rather have a local show you around, the Saboreando Santander gastronomic food tour takes you through the best pintxos bars with a guide who knows the scene inside out, which is a great way to hit the ground running on your first evening.
For a broader city overview that includes the food district, this small-group Santander walking tour is also worth considering.
THE DETAILS
Where | Plaza de Cañadío, Santander
Tip | Arrive at pintxos bars between 7 pm and 9 pm for the freshest selection; many bars put out a new round at the start of the evening
BOOK | Visit the best pintxos bars with this Saboreando Santander gastronomic food tour, which covers the city's culinary highlights with a guide who knows the scene inside out
#3 WALK THE COAST AND ENJOY A FRESH SEAFOOD LUNCH IN LA MARUCA
The best thing I did in Santander was also the simplest: walking the coastal path from Faro de Cabo Mayor lighthouse along the rugged north Atlantic coastline to the small town of La Maruca.
The lighthouse sits about 20 minutes from the city centre and marks the start of one of the finest coastal walks in northern Spain.
From there, follow the clifftops south - the path hugs the coast the entire way, with hidden coves below for swimming stops, dramatic Atlantic views in every direction and, on a weekday morning at least, almost nobody else around.
La Maruca is where the walk ends, and lunch begins. A small, unpretentious coastal town with good seafood restaurants right on the water. I had vegetarian tapas, which were excellent. For seafood lovers, the fresh catch here is the obvious order.
The walk is leisurely despite some challenging sections - take water, sunscreen and a snack, and allow a few hours to do it at a proper pace rather than a march.
THE DETAILS
Start | Faro de Cabo Mayor, Santander
Distance | Around 5km one way - return by bus or taxi from La Maruca
Pack | Towel for a swim stop, sunscreen, water, cash for lunch and the return bus
Tip | Go on a weekday morning for the quietest experience - the path gets busier on summer weekends
48 hours in | how to spend a perfect 48 hours in santander, spain
#4 SWIM OR SURF AT EL SARDINERO BEACH
As an Australian, I know a good beach when I see one. El Sardinero is a very good beach.
Two-kilometre-long stretches of golden sand are divided by a lookout point, crystal clear Atlantic water and a promenade lined with bars and restaurants serving fresh seafood.
Placed in Sydney or Rio, it would be considered one of the world's great city beaches. In Santander, it's just where locals go on a sunny afternoon, which tells you everything you need to know about this city.
El Sardinero also has a legitimate surfing pedigree; it's considered the birthplace of surfing in Spain, which gives the surf school here a certain credibility.
Escuela de Surf Sardinero runs courses for all levels from beginners upward, with equipment included. Check current prices and availability directly on their website.
For a more relaxed alternative, head west to Playa de Mataleñas - a quieter, cliff-backed beach where locals go when El Sardinero gets busy.
THE DETAILS
Where | El Sardinero, Santander
Surf lessons | Escuela de Surf Sardinero - check current prices and availability on their website
Tip | The promenade restaurants are good for pinchos before or after the beach - no need to pack lunch if you're staying at the northern end
#5 ADMIRE THE VIEWS FROM MAGDALENA PENINSULA
A short bus ride or pleasant morning walk from the city centre, the Magdalena Peninsula is 24.5 hectares of coastal parkland with some of the best views in Santander, overlooking Isla de Mouro, the full sweep of the coastline to El Sardinero and the Bay of Santander in every direction.
The centrepiece is the Palacio de la Magdalena, built in the early 20th century as the summer residence of King Alfonso XIII and Queen Victoria Eugenia.
The guided tour takes around 45 minutes through the main state rooms and offers a surprisingly intimate look at how Spanish royalty spent their summers on the Cantabrian coast.
The setting - cliffs, sea and the bay unfolding around you - makes the whole thing considerably more atmospheric than a standard palace visit.
The peninsula also has quieter beaches, Playa de Bikinis and Playa de Magdalena, which are a welcome alternative to the crowds at El Sardinero on busy summer weekends.
For a properly guided experience covering both the palace interior and the peninsula's most interesting corners, including the mini zoo with sea lions and penguins and the museum of Man and the Sea. This private Peninsula and Palacio de la Magdalena tour covers it all with an official heritage guide.
THE DETAILS
Where | Palacio de la Magdalena, Santander
Hours | Tours hourly 11 am to 1 pm and 4 pm to 6 pm Monday to Friday, 10 am to noon Saturday and Sunday (October to mid-June). 10 am to noon Saturday and Sunday (mid-June to September)
Cost | €6.50 general, €4.50 reduced, free under 6
#6 EAT DELICIOUS ICE CREAM ON THE PASEO DE PEREDA PROMENADE
We have strong opinions about ice cream. It's our summer vice, and we take it seriously.
Santander, it turns out, takes it equally seriously.
Two institutions worth knowing about: Monerris, an artisanal gelateria that's been making ice cream and turrón from natural ingredients for over a century.
Smaller portions than the competition, but consistently rated the best quality in the city. The nougat and dark chocolate flavours are both outstanding.
And then there's Regma, a Santander institution since 1933, famous across the city for portion sizes that are frankly unreasonable. The raspberry cheesecake was our personal favourite. Queue times in summer are equally unreasonable, and entirely worth it.
Pick up a scoop from either and wander down the Paseo de Pereda waterfront - the promenade running along the bay is one of the most pleasant places to do absolutely nothing in Santander, and ice cream makes it better.
THE DETAILS
MONERRIS | Plaza de Cuadro, 2, Santander - best quality in the city
REGMA | Paseo de Pereda, 5, Santander - best portion sizes, open daily 10:30 am to 9:30 pm
#7 STEP INSIDE THE UNIQUE SANTANDER CATHEDRAL
We're not particularly religious, but a good cathedral is always worth the detour, and Santander's is actually interesting.
What makes it unusual is the structure itself: two Gothic churches built one on top of the other, with construction spanning the 13th and 14th centuries.
The lower church, the Iglesia del Santísimo Cristo, is the oldest monument in the city, small, with low vaulted ceilings, and housing relics of Santander's patron saints San Emeterio and San Celedonio, after whom the city takes its name.
Look down through the glass floors, and you're looking at the Roman foundations of an ancient hot spring resort that existed here before the church was built.
The cathedral has had a turbulent history. A dynamite explosion on the steamship Cabo Machichaco in 1893 caused significant damage, and the great Santander fire of 1941, which destroyed much of the city centre, left it in ruins.
The restoration from 1942 to 1953 was extensive. The 1959 mural by Valencian painter José Cataluña Miralles on the right side of the altar depicts the original cathedral's construction, and is worth finding.
Entry to the main cathedral is free. The cloister costs €2.
THE DETAILS
Where | Calle Somorrostro, Santander
Cost | Free entry to the cathedral, €2 for the cloister
Hours | Open daily with afternoon siesta closure - check current times before visiting as these vary seasonally
BOOK | For context and history, this private guided tour of Santander's Cathedral and Centro Botín covers both in one session with an English-speaking guide
#8 HAVE A DRINK (OR TWO) IN PLAZA DE CANADIO
You can't come to Santander and not spend an evening in Plaza de Cañadío. The square comes alive after dark - locals spill out of the surrounding bars, the standing tables fill up, and the whole thing has the kind of easy, unhurried energy that Spanish evening culture does better than anywhere.
Bar Canela on the square is the obvious starting point - friendly staff, long opening hours and the kind of place where you end up staying longer than planned.
El Ventilador is another Plaza de Cañadío staple, popular with a 25-35 crowd and perfect for kicking off the night with the square's atmosphere behind you.
For something with more character, Little Bobby Speakeasy on Calle del Sol is a genuinely distinctive spot - thematic drinks, great decor and occasional live music. One of those places where the experience is the point.
Terminal Sur on Calle Pasadizo Zorrilla is a stylish hole-in-the-wall with great music and well-priced drinks, exactly the kind of bar you hope to stumble across.
For those wanting to really push on, Calle Rio de la Pila has the full range - everything from craft beer bars to late-night clubs operating well into the morning.
As with the rest of Spain, things don't really get going before midnight. Plan accordingly.
THE DETAILS
Where | Plaza de Cañadío, Santander
Tip | Start at Plaza de Cañadío around 9 pm for the pintxos bar atmosphere, move to Calle Rio de la Pila when you're ready to push on later in the evening
#9 FILL UP ON FRESH PRODUCE AT MERCADO DE LA ESPERANZA
Markets are the best way to understand a city. If the produce is good, the vendors are friendly, and the atmosphere is humming, the city usually is too. Mercado de la Esperanza delivered on all three.
Housed in a beautiful 19th-century cast-iron structure behind the town hall, this is where Santander does its shopping.
Eighty stalls across two floors: the ground floor almost entirely devoted to fish and seafood - the range and freshness genuinely extraordinary for a city this size - and the upper floor covering meat, cheese, fruit, vegetables and regional Cantabrian specialities including quesada, anchovies and local cheeses worth taking home.
I picked up an obscene quantity of cherries and stone fruit for next to nothing, packed a bag for the coastal walk and didn't look back. The snack bar on the second floor is also worth a stop if you're hungry - some of the market's best produce gets cooked up there.
Outside in Plaza de la Esperanza, a fruit and vegetable market runs on Tuesday, Friday and Saturday mornings from 9 am. On other days, it's a textile and accessories market - less interesting for most visitors but worth knowing about.
THE DETAILS
Where | Plaza de la Esperanza, Santander
Hours | Monday to Saturday 8 am to 2 pm. Thursday and Friday are also open from 5 pm to 7:30 pm. Closed Sundays.
Tip | Go early morning for the most atmospheric experience and the fullest stalls — the fish section in particular is worth seeing at its busiest
BEST SANTANDER DAY TOURS
Santander's tour offering has expanded considerably. Here are the ones worth booking:
SANTANDER HOP-ON HOP-OFF TOUR | the easiest way to cover the city's main sights in a day, with commentary and the flexibility to get off wherever interests you most.
SABOREANDO SANTANDER FOOD TOUR | a guided gastronomic tour through Santander's best pintxos bars. The best introduction to the city's food scene on your first evening.
PRIVATE CATHEDRAL AND CENTRO BOTÍN TOUR | covers both of Santander's most significant cultural sites with an official English-speaking guide. Includes the permanent collection at Centro Botín featuring Sorolla and Matisse.
WESTERN COAST OF CANTABRIA VILLAGES DAY TRIP | a full day covering San Vicente de la Barquera, Comillas and Santillana del Mar, finishing with a visit to the UNESCO-listed Altamira neocave. One of the best day trips available from Santander.
EL CASTILLO CAVES AND PALEOLITHIC ART TOUR | a guided visit to the caves of El Castillo and Las Monedas, featuring 40,000-year-old cave art. Consistently among the most highly rated tours available from Santander.
PLAN YOUR VISIT TO SANTANDER
HOW TO SPEND THE PERFECT DAY IN SANTANDER
We feel like Santander rewards those who move at a Spanish pace - slowly, with purpose and with food at the centre of every decision. This perfect day itinerary is what we think is the best way to spend the day:
EARLY MORNING (8-10 AM) | head to Mercado de la Esperanza before the crowds arrive. The fish section alone is worth the trip. Pick up fruit and snacks for later, grab a coffee at the market café and watch the city wake up.
MID-MORNING (10 AM-1 PM) | walk to Centro Botín for the current exhibition and the rooftop views across the bay. Then follow the Paseo de Pereda waterfront west, stopping for a closer look at the Palacio de la Magdalena if you have time.
The coastal walk from Faro de Cabo Mayor is the alternative if the weather is good - take the packed market fruit, follow the clifftops and end up in La Maruca for lunch.
LUNCH (1-3 PM) | La Maruca for fresh seafood after the coastal walk, or back in the city at Bodega del Riojano for the sharing platters. Either way, allow two hours. This is Spain.
AFTERNOON (3-6 PM) | this is siesta time and most of Santander knows it. Head to El Sardinero for a swim, or join the locals doing nothing particularly well on the beach. Playa de Mataleñas is the quieter option if El Sardinero is crowded.
LATE AFTERNOON (6-8 PM) | pick up ice cream from Monerris or Regma and walk the Paseo de Pereda. Visit the cathedral if you haven't already — the afternoon crowds have thinned by now.
EVENING (8 PM ONWARDS) | Plaza de Cañadío for pintxos and a drink. Start at Bar Canela or El Ventilador, work through a few bars and let the evening take its own direction.
If you want to push on into the night, Calle Rio de la Pila has everything from craft beer to late-night clubs. Don't expect things to get going before midnight.
WHEN TO VISIT SANTANDER
Santander is genuinely worth visiting year-round, but timing makes a real difference to the experience.
JULY & AUGUST | Peak season, the warmest months, the busiest beaches and a full calendar of festivals and outdoor events.
The city comes alive in a way that's genuinely enjoyable, though domestic tourism means accommodation books up fast and prices rise accordingly. If summer is your window, book early.
JUNE & SEPTEMBER | The sweet spots. Warm enough for the beach, considerably quieter than peak season and noticeably cheaper.
September in particular has a lovely quality - the city exhales after summer, the light is beautiful, and the sea is still warm.
SPRING (APRIL & MAY) | Is excellent for those who want the city without the crowds. The weather is mild, everything is open, and you'll have the coastal walk and Magdalena Peninsula largely to yourself.
WINTER | Mild by northern European standards - rarely freezing - and the mountains of the Cordillera Cantábrica to the south offer skiing within easy reach.
Santander in winter is quiet, affordable and an entirely different city from the summer version. Worth considering for those who want an unhurried long weekend in a place that's genuinely beautiful without the accompanying crowds.
HOW TO GET AROUND SANTANDER
Local buses run by TUS cover the whole city, including the beaches and are reliable and inexpensive - around €1.30 per journey. Route maps and timetables are available at every stop and at tusantander.es.
Santander is also a very bike-friendly city with hire bikes available at stations throughout the centre - a credit card is all you need to release one, and they must be returned to a bike station.
Taxis are available from ranks throughout the city and are reasonably priced for a European city. Note that Uber does not operate in Santander - use Cabify instead.
BY BOAT
One of the nicest ways to reach the beaches across the bay is by boat. Los Reginas departs from the Jardines de Pereda on the promenade every 30 minutes to Somo and Pedreña.
A return ticket costs €6.50, a single €4. Check current timetables at losreginas.com as departures vary by tide and season.
HOP-ON HOP-OFF BUS
For those who want the easiest possible overview of the city's highlights in a day, the City Sightseeing hop-on hop-off tour covers all the major sights with commentary included.
TRAVEL INSURANCE FOR SANTANDER
Honest take: if something goes wrong — a medical emergency, a missed ferry, a scooter accident on a winding island road, travel insurance is the difference between a stressful story and a catastrophic one.
After 10+ years of full-time travel, here's what we use and recommend:
FOR TRAVELLERS | World Nomads offers travel insurance for independent travellers and intrepid families. Their policies offer coverage for more than 150 activities as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more.
Get a quote from World Nomads →
READ | Our ultimate guide to travel insurance
PLANNING TO VISIT SANTANDER, SPAIN SOON?
Make the most of your time in Spain with our essential travel guides.
SANTANDER
48-Hour Guide to Santander | where to stay, what to eat and everything you need to know for a perfect short break
MORE SPAIN
Things to Do in Menorca | our complete guide to Spain's most underrated Balearic island
Best Beaches in Menorca | over 200 beaches covered, with our personal favourites
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS
Travel Insurance Guide | why we never travel without it and what to look for
Responsible Travel Tips | How to travel more consciously
Photography Gear Guide | what we use to take all our travel photos
LOVE SPAIN? YOU'LL LOVE THESE POSTS TOO!
We were hosted by Spain Tourism and Cantabria Tourism as part of the #SpainCities campaign. A big thank you to the team for making our stay memorable. As always, all views are our own.
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