A Day Trip Guide to Mykines, the Faroe Islands’ Land of Maybe

A guide to Mykines Island, Faroe Islands | The Common Wanderer

From puffins to hiking, a historic lighthouse to epic landscapes, Mykines really packs a punch when it comes to adventure. This guide covers everything you need to know about this famous Faroese island, including how to get there, when to go, what to know, where to see the puffins and how to visit responsibly.


“The Faroe Islands is a land that time seems to have forgotten, where you can see snow, rain, and sun all in the same day. The Land of Maybe is the perfect name for it. The only thing of which you can be certain is you’ll have an adventure you’ll never forget.”

— James Pearson, The Land of Maybe

Right at this moment, above a tiny island at the edges of the world, the skies are alive with beating wings.

For those looking skyward it’s a mesmerising sight; thousands upon thousands of migratory seabirds circling and gliding on the wind.

All around, a cacophony of sound; songs to new mates, calls to baby chicks, and the fierce crashing of waves against the rocky cliffs below. 

This is Mykines (pronounced Mitch-eh-nehz), a far-flung island in the western reaches of the mystical Faroe Islands.

Home to just 12 people, a lighthouse and a deluge of weather year-round - and hundreds of thousands of clumsy orange-beaked Arctic Puffins during the warmer summer months. 

As you might imagine, it's also the setting of one of our most favourite days in the entirety of our Faroe Islands trip.

When it comes to once-in-a-lifetime experiences, standing on a rugged hill overlooking the crashing ocean, witnessing the flurry of these lively birds all around is one we’ll remember forever. 

For any traveller who loves adventure (and cute wildlife), a visit to Mykines should be at the top of your Faroes itinerary. In this guide, we’ve covered everything you need to know, including how to get to the island, what to do when you're there, and a few insider tips you need to know before you go.


YOUR MYKINES ISLAND DAY TRIP GUIDE



MYKINES DAY TRIP |
THE SHORT OF IT

Where is Mykines | The westernmost island of the Faroe Islands archipelago

Mykines Highlights | The Mykines Holmur Lighthouse, Arctic Puffin and migratory seabird colonies

How long should you spend on Mykines? | 1-2 days

Best time to visit Mykines? | May 1st - August 31st

How to get to Mykines? | By ferry or by helicopter


WHERE IS MYKINES 

Mykines is the westernmost of the 18 main islands that make up the Faroe Islands archipelago. There’s only one settlement on the island, a town of the same name that’s home for just a handful of full-time residents. 

Mykines is also technically split in two halves, Mykines and Mykineshólmur, separated by the narrow cleft of Holm Gjogv (Holm gorge).

Today, a safe and sturdy metal and timber bridge spans that ravine, a development that’s proved indispensable for locals, who otherwise would have to navigate treacherous waters, or historically, make use of a treacherous chairlift contraption.

 
 

HOW TO GET TO MYKINES 

There are two ways to get to Mykines, the first, a ferry, is the more usual route while the other, a helicopter ride, lends itself to a little more James Bond-esque adventure. 

HOW TO GET TO MYKINES BY FERRY 

The most common way to get to Mykines between May 1 - August 31 is to take the No. 36 ferry from Søvagúr (Vagar island), which departs from here at 10.20 and 16.20 daily (weather permitting). 

The 10:20am ferry tends to be the option most day trippers will take and it does book out weeks in advance, so be sure to book your journey ahead of time. Tickets can be purchased here.

The crossing takes about an hour, and features some typically epic Faroese landscapes in the process. First, you’ll sail out of the Sørvágsfjørður  fjord and along the prehistoric-looking Tindhólmur islet, sea stacks of Drangarnir and famed Stóri Drangur archway that jut dramatically straight from the North Atlantic. About halfway through, the towering Basalt columns that make up the cliffs of Mykines come into view, an area nicknamed the Steinskógir (stone forest).

Mykines harbour is almost invisible until the last minute; tucked away in a small cove almost completely encased by towering basalt cliffs. Once you disembark, there’s a steep staircase winding up towards the green meadows and charming turf-covered houses of the pretty village.

Return ferries from Mykines to Søvagúr depart at 11:05 (generally for those who have stayed overnight) and 17:05.

The Mykines ferry is not included in the Faroe Islands multi-day transport pass, however at DKK 60 / £7 per adult tickets are fairly cheap. Alternatively, if you choose to take a day trip with Heini, round trip transport from Tórshavn is also included.



THE DETAILS 

Ferry tickets | DKK 60 / £7per adult, available here

Tips | the ferry only operates between May 1 - August 31

BOOK | Ferry tickets can be booked here


HOW TO GET TO MYKINES BY HELICOPTER 

The only alternative way to reach Mykines is by helicopter — and it’s probably the cheapest heli ride you’ll ever take! 

Thanks to their fickle seas, helicopter transport is subsidised in the Faroe Islands and is often the only way for Faroese residents and their goods to reach the more remote, lesser populated islands during much of the year. This subsidy (paid for by Faroese taxpayers) means that tickets are just 145 DKK each way (around £17!).

Luckily for travellers, the service operated by Atlantic Airways from Vagar to Mykines is also available as a viable option for visitors to the islands too - though do note that you will only be able to travel one way by helicopter to Mykines (you’ll need to book your return trip via ferry). 

The helicopter runs once a day, three times a week on Sunday, Wednesday, and Friday, with a max capacity of 12 people. It is also very much subject to wind and weather conditions, so you’ll need to keep an eye on departures. 

For flight schedule and status details, check this site. To book your helicopter tickets, head here.

THE DETAILS 

Schedule | Sunday, Monday, Friday, full timetable available here

Cost | 145 DKK / £17 

BOOK | Book your helicopter seat here

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WHEN TO VISIT MYKINES

The best time to visit Mykines is during the summer months of May - August, when the weather (and surrounding ocean!) is calmer and the Arctic Puffins and other migratory seabirds arrive to the islands to breed and nest for the warmer months. 

The ferry also only runs during these months; during the winter months the crossing is wild and unpredictable and the island has been known to be cut off from the rest of the Faroes for weeks, if not months at a time. The only way to get to the island outside May-August is via helicopter, and tourists can only travel one way on these - so you’d need to stay overnight on Mykines and travel back later in the week.

Whilst rare (and not something we personally experienced), travellers have been known to get stuck on-island far longer than they planned. Like a reporter from one of the big global outlets, according to Heini, who arrived on Mykines only to get stranded by weather so bad not even a helicopter could safely make it over to retrieve him again for more than a week.

We recommend timing your trip to Mykines at the start of your Faroe Islands itinerary, for the craggy terrain and unpredictably wild weather of the Faroes make no apologies to the Faroese nor their tourists. 

RELATED | Our Faroe Islands travel tips

A view looking back at Mykines town and surrounds

OUR EXPERIENCE ON MYKINES ISLAND | THE LAND OF MAYBES

Most adventures to Mykines begin with the anticipation of adventure, excitement about seeing puffins, and a wild, pitching ferry ride through the dark waters of the northern Atlantic ocean before being roughly deposited on the crumbling steps of the island’s harbour.

Ours began with all of the above, plus the cheerful face of Heini Heinesen, the local who was to guide us on our hike today.

“Welcome to the Land of Maybes” he greeted us with a laugh, gesturing to the gloomy skies above the harbour. The Land of Maybes, we’d discover later, is what the English forces stationed here during WWII nicknamed Mykines, thanks to its rough weather and propensity to be isolated from the rest of the archipelago entirely during the stormy winter months.

But then came the assurance: seeing Puffins today is not a question of maybes, it’s a definite.

Heini knows the landscapes and weather here better than anyone; growing up the son of the last lighthouse keeper to man Mykines’ famous lighthouse will do that. Over the course of our twisting, at times slippery hike from the village to the Mykines lighthouse, it becomes clear he's full of passion for sharing his island with curious tourists like us.

Heini, our Mykines island guide and former resident

As we later gazed in wonder at the thousands of puffins soaring overhead, he exclaimed “I love it here everyday, so I can’t even imagine how you must love it here today”.

At the Mykines Lighthouse where he spent his youth, his eyes twinkle as he regales us with tales of all the mischief he got up to as a young boy growing up in a lighthouse at the ends of the world - and later, when we ask him if he ever tires of the weather or isolation, he shrugs and replies, “if you love something, it's the power that drives you every day”. 

When it comes to once-in-a-lifetime experiences, standing on a rugged hill overlooking the crashing ocean, watching little puffins clown about all around us is one we’ll remember forever — and in hindsight, our visit to Mykines was probably the best experience we had on the Faroes for two reasons: puffins and our hike with Heini.

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The endless Mykines Island

THINGS TO DO ON MYKINES

SEE THE PUFFINS ON MYKINES 

You’ll actually first see the many bird species here long before you arrive on the island; hundreds of thousands of birds soar and weave about in moving clouds of grey and white feathers in the skies above the island.

Of course, the number one attraction on Mykines is the adorably cute and clumsy Puffin population. While these clown-like birds, with their colourful orange beaks and teeny tiny wings can actually be found in a few places on the Faroes, the best place to see them is definitely on Mykines, where they pair up to nest and mate for the summer months.

The breeding area on Mykines is actually a designated Ramsar area, an intergovernmental treaty to protect wetlands of global importance. To date, something like 305 species of seabirds have been found to inhabit the whole of the Faroes, from Gannets to Fulmars, Loon to Petrels, and many of them can be found in the summer months right here on Mykines.

For more info on bird-watching opportunities in the Faroes, click here.

a family of puffins on Mykines island

HIKE THE MYKINESHÓLMUR TRAIL TO THE MYKINES LIGHTHOUSE

The Mykineshólmur trail is the path leading from Mykines Village through the puffins, over the Hólmgjogv and finally, to the lighthouse. Basically, if you’re here to see the best of Mykines island, you’re going to be hiking this trail. 

Just to the left of the Mykines village, you’ll see a steepish grassy trail that looks a lot more like farmland than a hiking path - that's the start. Most people were heading that way when we got off the ferry, so if you follow the masses you should be able to find your way quite easily.

Follow this up until you get to a checkpoint manned by fluoro vest-wearing officials where you’ll be asked to provide proof of your hiking fee payment. If you haven't purchased this online already, you can pay the 250 DKK per person in cash here (if anyone has been and found this not to be the case, we’d appreciate if you could let us know in the comments below!).

The trail continues up fairly steeply, before reaching a flattened, rocky section where a memorial erected remembering locals lost to the seas - a reminder of how tough life really can be here - can be found. From here, head right and continue coursing down what, at times, feels like a slightly treacherous ridgeline strung with rope, chains, and some fencing. 

Eventually you’ll arrive at a narrow slip of trail called the í Lamba — the part of your hike you’re probably most excited about! This is where the millions of Puffin burrows can be found either side of the trail, and you’ll be hard-pressed not to be overwhelmed by the sheer number of these birds living their best lives all around you. 

This section of the trail is managed by officials to prevent overcrowded and disruption. They may hold you back a little longer to allow the area to clear or hurry you along in sections - this is all to keep the puffin populations safe and happy.

Once you’re through this section, you'll cross the narrow 40m-long steel bridge that connects Mykines and Mykineshólmur, before continuing on and up to the picturesque lighthouse perched precariously at the end of the islet. Built in 1909, the Mykines Lighthouse is another of the island’s most recognisable features, particularly if you’re a keen photographer!

The end-of-the-world-esque views back towards the island with the lighthouse in the foreground are spectacular. Keep an eye out for the remains of World War II shelters used by the lighthouse families during the frequent German wartime bombing raids on the lighthouse nearby too. 

Once you're ready to head back to the village, you can either retrace your steps again, or take the lower path that weaves past the lighthouse and reconnects up with the path again (this is the easier, more popular option).

You can hike this trail independently if you wish, alternatively we did our hike with Heini from Visit Mykines

THE DETAILS

Distance | 7-8km

Length | 2.5-3 hours

Cost | 250DKK per person

Toilets | Can only be found at the very start of the trail (near Mykines village)

Fitness | Decent level of fitness and mobility required due to steep, uneven stretches.

EXPLORE MYKINES VILLAGE AND ENJOY A HEARTY LOCAL LUNCH 

One thing we didn't expect to find on Mykines were cosy cafes or a cute village to explore; but both do actually exist here. 

Traditional turf-covered timber houses are dotted about, all of which seem to have epic views over the sea (one local we spoke to referred to his floor-to-ceiling living room window as his personal TV!). 

We were actually spoilt with a hearty, hot lunch at the house of a Mykines local, but there are also two cafes, The Locals, and Mykinesstova, here serving up all manner of tasty local dishes, coffee, and the odd trinket or souvenir too! You can't miss them as they're right next to each other.

RELATED | The best things to do on the Faroe Islands

Mim overlooking the edge of Mykines
Overlooking Mykines village

BOOK YOUR DAY TOUR OF MYKINES

If you’re keen to explore Mykines with Heini yourself, you can find the details of his tour here.

Admittedly, the tour price does seem to have increased quite significantly since our own visit to the island, however we do feel like his knowledge and enthusiasm for the island he’s called home since he was a child was worth the investment. 

Plus the fog on Mykines cannot be underestimated, and it can be super easy to lose the path (and end up too close to the edge!)

BOOK | Mykines day hike


WHAT TO KNOW BEFORE VISITING MYKINES ISLAND

We’ve already written a guide to the essential things you should know before travelling to the Faroe Islands more generally, but there are a few Mykines-specific things you should also know before you make the ferry trip over:

YOUR TRIP MAY BE CANCELLED ALTOGETHER

Unsurprisingly given its nickname of the ‘Land of Maybes’, one thing that can be relied upon in the Faroes is that the weather is eternally, well, unreliable. Soupy fogs, lashing storms, heavy rain and whipping winds can roll in at a moment’s notice and wreak havoc on your plans. 

Because of this, accessibility to Mykines isn’t always reliable, and at times ferry and helicopter transport will be cancelled for days on end. It is an unfortunate reality of life somewhere as wild as the Faroes, so while it’s likely you’ll encounter no issues, it is something to be aware of, prepared for, and generally just kind of accepting of.

If your ferry is cancelled due to bad weather, full refunds are available.

YOU NO LONGER HAVE TO HIRE A GUIDE…

In 2017, rules came into effect that everyone hiking beyond the Mykines village was required to book a certified local guide, to ensure safety and also protect the local Puffin population.

This has subsequently changed to a ‘recommendation, not a demand’ by the authorities - so you no longer have to, though we do recommend them for enriching the overall experience, and also for their expert knowledge of the trail (particularly in foggy conditions!).

…BUT YOU DO HAVE TO PAY A HIKING FEE

In 2020, the hiking fee to the Mykineshólmur lighthouse was increased to 250 DKK / £30. This fee goes towards environmental maintenance, protecting the bird life, creating and maintaining walking paths, etc.

You can either pay this fee on mykines.fo or at the checkpoint on the trailhead.

BRING SEASICKNESS TABLETS 

If you’re prone to motion sickness, you might want to bring along some anti-nausea tablets for the ferry ride over. The crossing can be quite rough in spots, and while personally we found the pitching and rolling pretty fun, someone who is susceptible to seasickness may not find the rollercoaster vibes as much fun as we did!  

PACK WET WEATHER GEAR 

You’ll never regret throwing some warm, waterproof gear in your daypack when you’re exploring on the Faroe Islands; on our own visit to Mykines we were greeted with glorious sunshine, gloomy dark skies, and a beating rain shower too!

Trust us, the last thing you want in this part of the world is to end up soaked to the bone and subject to a strong wind too - always err on the side of caution and bring a suitable rain jacket (with a hood) to help you stay warm and dry while you wait it out.

WEAR STUDY HIKING BOOTS 

This is definitely not a trail to be completed in your bog-standard sneakers or running shoes; at various points you’ll find the trail thick with mud, quite slippery, or with crumbling rock steps (that feel a little too close to the edge of the island!). You’ll want a shoe with thick soles, strong ankle support, and basically just a sturdy boot feel. 

KEEP AWAY FROM CLIFF EDGES

It can be mighty tempting to peer over the edges of the islands in the Faroes to the churning sea below, but the wind on Mykines was fairly fierce the day we visited and it really wouldn’t have taken much to be blown off the edge! Keep your distance from the edges just in case.

The amazing cliffs of Mykines island, Faroe Islands

RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL ON MYKINES 

As we’ve mentioned in some of our other Faroe Islands posts, the unique scenery and wild vibes of the archipelago have led to them becoming a tourist (and instagrammer) playground in recent years. In turn, this has lead to some pretty bad behaviour, and Mykines, one of the more fragile environments in the Faroes, definitely isn’t excluded from this.

Although the Government and Tourism Board are working together to control the negative impacts of tourism, there are a few responsible travel tips you should be aware of before visiting:

LEAVE NO TRACE 

As with any hike around the world, your aim should be to leave no trace whatsoever of your visit. Stick to the designated paths, take your rubbish off the island with you, and under no circumstances should you take any wildlife, vegetation, or similar out of the area with you (we did hear of tourists stealing endangered puffin eggs, which was so mindblowingly horrifying we just can’t even process it). 

KEEP AWAY FROM THE BIRDS 

The chance to get up close and personal with a colony of Arctic Puffins is obviously Mykines biggest tourist drawcard, but unfortunately this popularity also comes with the potential to seriously threaten the survival of these bird colonies. 

On our own trip to Mykines, we personally witnessed some day trippers behaving extremely irresponsibly; trampling over puffin burrows, waving cameras in their faces, and allowing their kids to run wild and scream right near nesting birds. 

Yes, seeing birds in this environment is a novelty; but it’s also vital to understand that nesting here is an integral part of these birds survival, not merely a tourist or photography playground. 

Protect the puffin (and other bird) colonies here by reinforcing sustainable behaviours; keep your distance, stick to the paths, and limit your noise and general disruption as much as possible. 

DON’T FLY YOUR DRONE HERE

It should probably go without saying that because this is an important breeding ground for thousands of seabirds, flying drones is illegal on Mykines (for all of the restrictions on drone-flying in the Faroes, see this link).  

Be considerate of the environment and the thousands of birds and other wildlife who call it home. What’s more, if you do decide to flout the rules, you can pretty much expect to lose your drone to the harsh wind or an attacking gull, anyway.


PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS FOR MYKINES 

Like most places on the Faroe Islands, moody Mykines is just made for photography; the rugged cliffs rise above wild seas while puffins and gulls soar in the skies and burrow down in nests. It’s colourful, lively, and we felt like we could take 1000 photos here and it still wouldn't be enough. 

We recommend bringing both a wide angle (i.e. 16-35mm)  for the landscapes and a zoom lens (like the 70-200mm) for the puffins with you on your day trip to Mykines island.

Tip: also be sure to pack a lens cleaning kit in your camera bag, as the salty air and constant wind will wreak havoc on your lens! 

See our full travel photography kit here

A puffin on Mykines Island, Faroe Islands

WHERE TO STAY ON MYKINES

If you do decide to stay overnight in Mykines, we recommend spending the night at either this cute cabin with bunk beds, or this cosy cottage that sleeps six guests and has everything you’ll need for your stay.

READ | We’ve written a comprehensive guide to Faroe Islands airbnbs, including Mykines and Tórshavn, which you can read here.

If you’re sticking with a day trip and looking for accommodation in Tórshavn instead, we recommend the following options:

HOTEL TÓRSHAVN

Hotel Tórshavn, right in the centre of town - a clean, basic hotel and good base for exploring.

BOOK | HOTEL TÓRSHAVN

HAVGRIM SEASIDE HOTEL

Havgrim Seaside hotel - a beautiful little boutique hotel that's been around since 1948 but recently refurbished. It's just past the harbour, with some pretty epic sea views. And a deliciously tasty breakfast buffet (excuse us while we drool a little!).

BOOK | HAVGRIM SEASIDE HOTEL

AIRBNB IN TÓRSHAVN

We’ve got a guide to the best airbnbs in the Faroe Islands (including Tórshavn!) coming soon, but in the meantime, search for your perfect Faroes airbnb here.


TRAVEL INSURANCE FOR MYKINES AND THE FAROE ISLANDS

We firmly believe that if you can't afford travel insurance, you really can't afford to travel. As the 2020/2021 pandemic has taught many; things can go wrong anywhere in the world and insurance is often the only way of mitigating any issues with minimal expense or stress for you.

In a place like the Faroes, where inclement weather and cancellations are aplenty, it’s even more vital.

For all travellers | HeyMondo - COVID-19 coverage, comprehensive travel + medical insurance, an app with 24-hour medical support, and no out-of-pocket fees. *Get 5% off your policy by booking through our link here.

For digital nomads | SafetyWing - COVID-19 coverage, comprehensive travel & medical, and policies can be purchased while already abroad.

Car Insurance | Insurance4CarHire - a great annual car insurance policy

READ | Our ultimate guide to travel insurance


PLAN YOUR VISIT THE FAROE ISLANDS

We have a heap of essential reading before visiting the Faroe Islands:

FAROE ISLANDS INSPIRATION | Our complete Faroe Islands itinerary and road trip guide, Our guide to the best things to see and do in the Faroe Islands, What to know about visiting the Faroe Islands,

FAROESE ATTRACTIONS | Our guide to Lake Sørvágsvatn, A day trip guide to Mykines island, and the ultimate guide to Kalsoy and the Kallur Lighthouse, A guide to the Faroe Islands’ quirky capital city

ACCOMMODATION IN THE FAROES | Our guide to the best airbnbs in the Faroe Islands

FAROE ISLANDS PHOTOGRAPHY | The beauty of the Faroe Islands in photos

PHOTOGRAPHY | Love our photography? Wondering what gear we use to get all of our photos around the world? Click here to view our detailed photography gear guide, as well as our top travel photography tips!

RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL | Responsible travel is important. REALLY IMPORTANT. Learn our top responsible travel tips to help you, your family and friends travel more consciously around the globe

ECO-FRIENDLY PACKING ESSENTIALS | Don’t leave home without our favourite eco-friendly travel essentials


 

DISCOVER THE FAROE ISLANDS WITH OUR USEFUL GUIDES

Our time on the Faroe Islands was made possible by the support of Visit Faroe Islands and their respective partners.
That said, all opinions - both good and bad! - are, and will always be our own. 


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