Discover the Lillafüred Forest Train, Hungary's Most Enchanting Train Ride
The Lillafüred forest train through the Bükk Mountains is a magical experience like none other in Hungary’s northeast. Here’s everything you need to know before you jump aboard!
Is there a greater thrill than discovering new lands from the swaying, clanking carriages of a train?
If there is, we haven’t found it yet.
It seems we’re not alone either; be it Sri Lanka, India, or Europe, there’s a certain magic that the humble locomotive adventure seems to stir in our fellow travellers too.
One doesn’t have to be train-obsessed to have spent hours gazing through the moving window or leaning out to wave and smile at those waiting on platforms and crossings. Or, of course, to have been the one standing beside the tracks, feeling the rush of adventure and movement and returning happy waves with glee.
Needless to say, when we discovered that there was an old-timey train running through the Bükk Mountains in Hungary, we were basically straight in the car and on our way.
Weaving through the thick forest between Miskolc, past Lillafüred and onto the little forest village of Garadna, the train ride is every bit the enchanting experience you might imagine, especially in Autumn.
Auburn leaves blanketed the forest floor like a carpet, tree branches stretched overhead like a golden tunnel, and the frosty air enveloped the track in a misty, moody fog — and we wondered if we’d somehow boarded the Hogwarts Express instead.
If your travels take you to Miskolc and Lillafüred (which we hope they do!), you need to add this gorgeous train ride to your itinerary while here. Here’s everything you need to know about the Lillafüred State Forest Railway!
THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO THE LILLAFÜRED FOREST TRAIN
ABOUT THE LILLAFÜRED STATE FOREST RAILWAY
The Lillafüred State Forest Railway (LAEV) The Lillafüred forest train is in Miskolc (read our guides to Miskolc and Lillafüred), in Hungary’s northeastern Borsod-Abaúj-Zemplén county.
It began life in November 1920, first as a narrow-gauge freight train transporting timber felled from the Bükk forests all around the country, before it began taking passengers three years later. It transitioned to a purely tourist-focused route in the 1990s.
These days, the electric locomotive ride is one of the most popular things to do in the Miskolc and Lillafüred areas, and can get super busy.
There’s also a super cute Lillafüred Christmas train that normally operates in December - if you’re travelling with kids during this time it would definitely be worth a visit!
HOW TO GET TO THE LILLAFÜRED FOREST TRAIN
If you type ‘Lillafured State Forest Railway’ into your Google Maps, you’ll end up with what looks like a train station nestled next to the Miskolc bus station. Sounds about right?
Wrong. That would very much be the wrong place.
This error was something we discovered for ourselves when we arrived, ready for our train adventure, and instead found ourselves standing in front of what appeared to be a train yard.
A quick dash to the Majláth station about 5 minutes up the road sorted us out, but we definitely want to save you guys from the same stress!
Instead, what you’re looking for is the Miskolc-Dorottya Utca train station (see it on the map here), which is the first stop in the LAEV railway journey.
It’s also the first stop, which means you’ll have better luck finding a good seat, particularly on warmer, busier days.
THE LILLAFÜRED TRAIN ROUTE, PRICES + TIMETABLE
The train begins in Miskolc-Dorottya and travels through the Bükk Mountains, past the lake town of Lillafüred and ends about 1 hour from its start in the teeny tiny forest town of Garadna.
If you’re based in Miskolc, we’d recommend jumping on at this first stop.
The train runs 4 times a day from Miskolc-Dorottya at 9:30am, 10:45am, 12:15pm, 1:45pm on weekends and public holidays only. From Garadna, the train back towards Miskolc-Dorottya departs at 10:40am, 12:10pm, 1:40pm, 3:10pm.
A single trip adult ticket will set you back HUF 1,300, a round-trip HUF 2,600, and for kindergarten-aged kids or seniors tickets for a round-trip visit are HUF 1800. Kids under two travel free.
For a full timetable, check the official site here.
Tip | If you only want to take the train one way, it’s possible to get off at Garadna train station and catch the #15 bus back to Felső-Majláth and onto the #1 tram back to Miskolc itself.
WHAT TO KNOW BEFORE TRAVELLING ON THE LILLAFÜRED FOREST TRAIN
THE TRAIN ONLY RUNS ON WEEKENDS & PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
The Lillafüred Forest Train only runs on weekends and public holidays, so unfortunately those visiting on a cheeky midweek mountain escape won’t get to enjoy this one unless it coincides with a National day.
The full timetable for the Lillafüred forest train can be found on the official site here.
TICKETS ARE CASH ONLY ONBOARD…
After plugging the wrong location into Google and having to run to the nearest stop, we obviously didn’t have a chance to purchase our tickets prior to clambering aboard the little wooden carriages.
This wouldn’t have been an issue, given that the conductor roams along the outside of the carriages to issue tickets with the same aloof gruffness that most train conductors seem to share.
But our second mistake for the day (and one we regularly make on our travels in Hungary to be honest) was misjudging the fare slightly and not having enough cash with us, which meant trying to work out a solution with our few words of Hungarian and lots of charades-like gestures - much to the amusement of our fellow passengers.
…BUT CAN BE PURCHASED USING CARD AT TWO PLACES
Eventually, our ticketing saga ended with us getting permission to take the train to Garadna and back to Lillafüred station where we jumped off, purchased the remaining fare to Majlath station via card and scrambled back onto the same train again.
Don't make the same mistakes as us; round-trip tickets can be purchased via bank card at two stations, Miskolc-Dorottya utca station and Lillafüred main station - or carry a decent amount of cash with you!
SIT ON THE RIGHT FOR THE BEST VIEWS
Though the views are enchanting from pretty much anywhere on the train, the best ones of the Lillafüred lake, forest, and the bridge can be found on the right-hand side of the train. Snagging a seat on this side is worth it!
RUG UP WARM ON COOLER DAYS…
If you’re planning to sit in one of the open-air carriages on cooler days, be sure to rug up really well (beanies, scarves, down jackets, etc) on cold days.
The train line runs through shaded forest and the breeze through the carriages was super crisp on the day we visited in Autumn!
…BUT THERE’S A HEATER ON BOARD IN WINTER
In winter, the open-air carriages are generally replaced by closed that are kept wonderfully toasty by a little iron wood-burning furnace.
The furnace was running on the day we took the train and absolutely delightful (and much-needed!) to warm our bones in front on the return journey.
THE TRAIN RIDE IS THE MAIN ATTRACTION
The old adage about the journey being more important than the destination actually rings kind of true here.
Garadna is a super teeny (as in, 1-2 building) settlement in the Bükk forests, with only a small refreshments shop, a local museum with history about the train and the local area, and a trout farm nearby you can visit for fish and some lunch. There are some hiking trails nearby, but overall there’s not really a great deal to do once you get here.
HOW TO GET TO MISKOLC
BY CAR
Getting to Miskolc from Budapest by car is super easy; jump straight on the M3 and follow it pretty much the whole way to Miskolc. We rented a car from Budapest through Rentalcars.com for about £40 for 3 days.
Tip | To use the motorway in Hungary, you need a highway permit (“matrica” in Hungarian, or Vignette - more information here), which can be obtained either at a petrol station on your journey or added to your car hire booking when picking up your car. It’s generally around 3,500 HUF / €10 extra.
BY TRAIN
Miskolc is Hungary’s northern hub which makes it super well-connected by trains. From Budapest, services run every 30-60 minutes (depending whether they’re express vs regular) from Budapest Keleti and operate straight through to Miskolc without changes. Prices are generally around 3,500 - 3,800 ft (£8-9).
Full train timetables to Miskolc can be found here.
WHERE TO STAY IN MISKOLC
We actually stayed in Miskolc at an airbnb called the Vintage Apartment, right in the heart of the old town.
The apartment itself was comfortable, spacious and had everything we needed for a short stay (including a coffee machine, always a must!). There’s also a car space in the carpark out the back - something greatly appreciated in an area where parking space seemed few and far between.
BOOK | VINTAGE APARTMENT MISKOLC
Alternatively, if you’re keen to experience Lillafüred’s most famous building, we recommend staying at the iconic Hunguest Hotel Palota, aka the palace overlooking Hamori-to. This luxurious, old-world style hotel is as charming on the inside as it looks on the outside!
BOOK | HUNGUEST HOTEL PALOTA
TRAVEL INSURANCE | STAY SAFE IN HUNGARY
Whatever you do, don’t travel without travel insurance, even if you’re the most experienced traveller.
Whether it be a hiking injury, car accident, theft, or lost baggage, things can go wrong in Hungary, and insurance is your only way of mitigating the issues!
BUY | Click here to get the best travel insurance deals with World Nomads
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